A while back, for totally different reasons, I cobbled up a Canon FD mount for my 4x5 camera - it was pretty heavily recessed to get the flange distance correct. I used the base of an existing recessed lens board along with a big PVC plumbing pipe cap and some miscellaneous hardware...
For a shutter I used the lens cap! (Obviously stopping down a lot to get the exposure times out to where that was possible.)
Some results...with the to-scale 35mm image frame superimposed...
24/1.4 Aspherical:
24/2.8:
85/1.2 Aspherical:
200/2.8:
As you can see, not a whole bunch of extra image circle to work with... and my recollection was the edges were more of a mess wide open but to really test that I'd need to get a proper shutter involved somehow. It was my intent to do this for all my FD lenses but there are so many of them, and this was a fair bit of work, and I wasn't really sure what the point was once I'd seen the results of the first few. But if someone wants to see the results from some other FD lenses that I have (which is most of them) I still have the rig and would be happy to give it a shot.
For anyone else that wants to try this, say with some other brand of lens, you just need to get a disassemble-able recessed lensboard (a lot of them seem to be this way so you can switch between recessed or protruding), an appropriately-sized PVC pipe cap, and a spare lens mount. I got my lens mount by finding a wrecked T-50 for $5 on That Auction Site and taking it apart. Your mileage may vary on other brands, but this was pretty straightforward on a Canon.
Duncan