Using Wollensak (pneumatic/pulb) shutter

olk

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Hello,

I recently acquired a Wollensak Varium 16" lens with a pneumatic/pulb (studio) shutter.

When I press the bulb, the shutter opens and closes, but I’ve noticed that the aperture blades seem to only open up to f/8 and remain there for a while.

Is this behavior normal? Should the blades fully open to f/3.5, but I simply can't see it because it happens too quickly? Or could there be an issue with the shutter’s operation?

I’d appreciate any help.

Best regards,
Oliver
 

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  • wollensak-varium.zip
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AnselMortensen

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The Studio shutter only opens to the set aperture.
The blades are the aperture.
If your aperture is set for f/8, it only opens to f/8.
If your aperture is set wide open, and the blades only open to f/8, there's a problem.
The shutter should respond quickly to the action of the bulb.
Squeeze...it opens.
Let go... it closes.
If it hangs up, it needs attention.
For service, if necessary, reach out to www.alphaxbetax.com
 
Last edited:

btaylor

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I have only one lens in studio shutter and I am not a fan. It needs service and those things have a reputation of being wonky. I just use mine as a barrel lens with a Packard shutter- problem solved.
 
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olk

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Using a Packard shutter (#6, 5") would be an option - unfortunately I'm in Europe, so both options - Packard shutter or service at alphabetax - are expensive.
I attached a video (zip file) that shows the shutter working at f/3.5....
 

AnselMortensen

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Are mechanically inclined?
The Studio shutter is a fairly simple mechanism.
If no parts are broken or missing, you might be able to get it operating properly with a disassemble/inspect/clean/lube/reassemble scenario.
 
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olk

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AnselMortensen said:
Are mechanically inclined?
The Studio shutter is a fairly simple mechanism.
If no parts are broken or missing, you might be able to get it operating properly with a disassemble/inspect/clean/lube/reassemble scenario.
Click to expand...

Do you know a online HOWTO that I could read before I disassemble the shutter?
The blades are a little bit out of sync (no perfect circle/aperture).
 

Dave Ludwig

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I cla'd mine many years ago with no reference information, just online pics of how the blades should look. I decided to take it apart knowing I may never get it operable. After some time fiddling with the blade positions I was able to get it working. Suggest after you get the cover rings off take a photo of the blade positions. As you stop down the aperature will become less of a circle and is normal. If memory serves correct I simply swabed everything with isopropyl alcohol, I did not use any lubricant and shutter still works. The blades are not metal so you may have to watch what type of solvent you use. Hopefully someone here can give you better direction.
 

cowanw

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I have a 18 inch Verito in such a shutter. The later mechanical plunger driven releases were more consistent and your air driven release like mine may just be inefficient. The lack of circularity as the leaves close is not unusual but the failure to open to full aperture is not right. There is a lot of leaking air pressure in the system and you do need a good quality and properly working large bulb with not too long a hose; The shutters are snappy as they open; even so the shutter does not tend to stay open as the later version of the mechanical release do. They close as air leaks and pressure drops. But the very short duration of open shutter in your movie suggests an inadequate bulb or to long or soft a hose.
The piston in the Studio Shutter can be screwed off to access the lever inside and separate the piston parts. The piston should run clean, freely and dry.
As Dave says it is safe to unscrew the front cover ring and look. Moving the release lever slowly and carefully by hand may reveal the hang up (or may jump the leaves-beware). Using the air release with the front cover off will certainly jump the leaves. Take your time to understand the mechanism and you will see were the hangup may be. The brass pins underneath or the tiny brass sleeves in the leaves may be an issue.
I presume the lever on top is working well and the shutter opens to wide open when you move the aperture ring and fully closes when you flick the top lever.
Lots of luck
Bill
 

Whir-Click

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A nice feature of Wollensak’s Studio Shutters from ~1926 onward (including those housing Varium lenses) is that the #5 size can be operated by either pneumatic bulb or mechanical cable release. Where the tubing attaches to the shutter you should also see an internal thread for a cable release tip. Personally I prefer the feedback and responsiveness of the mechanical release.
 
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olk

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Thank you for your help!

My Wollensak shutter doesn’t have a mechanical cable release, so I’m relying on the pneumatic setup.

It seems like Packard Shutters Inc. is no longer in business, unfortunately. :^(

I agree with Bill—it looks like the piston leaks air by design, with a small slit between the piston and the lens barrel. How long the shutter stays open appears to depend on how firmly the bulb is squeezed.

The internal lever does seem to fully open the aperture as intended. The issue with it "hanging" at f/8 might just be an optical illusion, and the shutter seems to be functioning as designed.

I’m considering replacing the bulb (see attached photo). Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations for a replacement?
 

cowanw

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Mine is like this. The threads are cut straight although a conical thread fits. I have an original Wollensak plunger which fits but none of my mechanical releases, straight or conical, work at all, while the air bulb is quite snappy.
Are these fittings made to work with either release or one or the other?
 
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olk

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cowanw said:
Why do you say that?
Click to expand...

Online shop doesn't work (page for placing the order is not working), impressum from 2021, no response to emails (also reported by others in the net).
 
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