Using Versalab Parallel properly

[Michael Firstlight]

I have my hands on a Versalb Parallel. I have an LPL4550XLG. To use it, I put my glass carrier in the enlarger as the instructions indicated I could use it to align with the negative stage. I put the Versalab on the easel and turned it on. I was then able to move the Versalb Parallel around the center of the easel (which aprox the center of the underlying baseboard) until the red dot reflected perfectly back over the laser hole. Does that mean that my negative stage is already perfectly aligned with the Easel?

Regards,
Michael

 

[Patrick Robert James]

If it is hitting directly on the red dot from which it emanates, yes. You should rotate the laser to see if it moves to make sure the laser is good.

The most important measurement though is the parallel between the lens and the film. That has to be right.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

Thanks. I tested the lens-to-baseboard and lens-to-easel stage using the provided glass strip held tight against the lens housing and found that my enlarger is about 1/16th of an inch (maybe less) off on the right side. I checked it at all different heights - it was nearly on center with the enlarger head low and the 1/16th off with the enlarger head from mid to high. It takes very little to center it. Unfortunately, the LPL4550 doesn't have an L-R adjustment. The Versalab instructions say that at 1/16" displacement, an enlarger will still make flawless prints, so I'm not sure if shimming the easel is worth trying to get it dead-on perfect with a few strips of electrical tape - or try to shim the RH side of the column. The measurement was the same whether I used just the baseboard and no easel or the 20x24 ByChrome vacuum easel.

Michael

 

[Sundowner]

If that sixteenth is going to make you wonder about anything at all, ever, then go ahead and shim it and get it perfect. If you're not going to be bothered about it, the effort isn't a great use of your time.

Rather: if the machine is within tolerance, the the necessity of any adjustments is a question more focused on the nature of the operator than of the equipment.

Personally, I'd lose sleep until the dots lined up, but I also have serious insecurity and self-worth issues.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

If that sixteenth is going to make you wonder about anything at all, ever, then go ahead and shim it and get it perfect. If you're not going to be bothered about it, the effort isn't a great use of your time.

Rather: if the machine is within tolerance, the the necessity of any adjustments is a question more focused on the nature of the operator than of the equipment.

Personally, I'd lose sleep until the dots lined up, but I also have serious insecurity and self-worth issues.

Yup, I am a bit OCD myself. I put a lot into my darkroom gear to have a non-compromise set-up - like top APO lenses etc - so yah, I have to get it right on the money. I added one strip of cloth gaffer's tape across the right underside of my 20x24" easel and it is now pretty much spot on. I tried layering two strips but then it went to the left of center 1/16th -- so I'm concerned trying shim that massive 4550XLG column would be overkill. We'll see if that satisfies my OCD LOL.

Michael

 

[Sundowner]

I'd probably invest in some shim stock, then; there's nothing to sate an OCD flare-up like adjusting things by a thousandth or two at a time.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

I found the shim stock. Chat GPT said the following:

A single strip of cloth gaffer's tape typically has a thickness ranging from 10 to 13 mils (0.010 to 0.013 inches), depending on the brand and type. To find a metal shim stock equivalent:

• Look for metal shim stock in the range of 0.010 to 0.013 inches in thickness.
• This translates to 10 to 13 thousandths of an inch, or 0.25 to 0.33 mm.

So it looks like

• For 0.010 inches:
  • Use a single 0.010" shim stock piece.
  • OR combine smaller pieces, such as 0.005" + 0.005" or 0.006" + 0.004".
• For 0.013 inches:
  • Combine:
    • 0.010" + 0.003"
    • 0.008" + 0.005"
    • 0.006" + 0.004" + 0.003"
    • 0.005" + 0.004" + 0.004"

I'll wait until I have a real OCD attack before tackling it - I'll have to take off the 4550 head, shim the base, put the head back on, test, rinse and repeat - arghhh!

Michael

 

[MattKing]

FWIW, the new ESTAR base for Porta and Ektar roll films is reported to be 0.10 mm.

 

[Michael Firstlight]

FWIW, the new ESTAR base for Porta and Ektar roll films is reported to be 0.10 mm.

Is there a risk the film base might crush and not remain 0.10 mm?

 

[MattKing]

Is there a risk the film base might crush and not remain 0.10 mm?

Interesting question.
One of the very real advantages of PET based films is that they maintain dimensional stability much better than acetate based films, so I would guess not.

 

[Sundowner]

If you do decide to shim, definitely try to go with as few pieces as possible. Set it up using whatever you have on hand, but once you figure out what you need, try to find exactly that shim thickness. Sometimes that's not possible, so just get as close as you can get.