C-41 Control 3200
Rodinal pre-treatment + C-41 3200
These scans were done raw, the C-41 control had levels applied in Photoshop for a basic balance, then the same levels settings were applied to the Rodinal pre-treatment, to show the relative difference between the two.
The Rodinal pre-treatment + C-41 seems to hold slightly better shadow detail, significantly better grain, and appears as if it would support moderately better image detail.
Here are some crops (from a high end scan), these were re-levelled individually this time quickly
C-41 control 3200
Rodinal pre-treatment + C-41 3200
Should also mention Rodinal forms some very weak colour dye, though when I've tried to use it before, it all but disappears after a bleach and fix. Here is a shot at 200, that only had Rodinal 1+100 10 min stand, stop, wash and dry (no bleach or fix).
Apart from a colour difference between the two 200 shots, I cannot find any other significant difference in image quality. The difference between the 200 and 3200 Rodinal pre-treatment shots being that the 200 would have received a lot more development and density than the small amount the 3200 would have gotten, perhaps the same difference in grain could be achieved with much less development in Rodinal at box speed, and I wonder how it would compare to a solvent type developer pre-treatment.
I'd like to try preflashing, but have no idea where to start. I've an Dead Link Removed, would this work as well as your tissue?
If you want a negative image from a negative film, and you are aiming for about 2 stops over or under, you should never push or pull. You don't need to. More than that change and you will probably want to.
Portra as a reversal film will give some odd colors and an orange background. Ask Dan (Athiril) for the exact procedures he used. AFAIK, he has gotten the best results so far. I've done it, but to me it is a waste of good film (IMHO).
PE
I still do not get pre-flashing method very clearly yet.
- Meter the scene.
- 6-stops under-exposure for pre-flashing.
- Shoot with metered value.
- Develop with Rodinal 1+100 for 10mins.
- Continue with C-41.
Unfortunatley, most of my 135 cameras do not have double exposure feature but I may try with Rolleicord if the above method is correct.
Dan, can you give us some indication how quickly you have to take the actual shot after the preflash? I would assume that if too much time passes, the whole effect disappears, yes?
This method, together with Cinestilll 800 must give a tremendous combo for Christmas shots ...
PS: I there a chance that instead of Rodinal we could use Michael R.'s low contrast full emulsion speed developers for the predev step?
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