Hi Lukas.Lukas Werth said:It is certainly necessary to be careful, but I have been using rapid fix (amonium thio.) for salt prints and -allready toned! - kallitypes without fixing-related problems. In fact, I never used sodium thio. for either of the two, though I have a bottle of it somewhere. I dillute, if I recall it correctly, about 1:16. I have not printed salt prints for some time, but this is what I rmember: they used to change their colour considerably - turned into an ugly, pale yellow during fixing, but did not loose much highlight density - though some overprinting is necessary - and regained their colour afterwards. I used to tone them after fixing, a practice I have discarded since.
Fully toned kallitypes don't bleach at all, neither do they change their colour apprechiably.
donbga said:Hi Lukas.
Thanks for the tip. At least I can use that as a starting point. Most of the time I tone kallis and VDBs before fixing so I'll give it a try. I'm using a concentrate for which one would dilute 1:9 for silver gelatin prints. I wonder if your ratio is made from concentrate?
Thanks,
Don Bryant
Sandy,sanking said:Don,
I am certain that if used in weak enough concentration ammonium thiosulfate would not cause bleaching.
However, this is the fixer I use for both VDB and kallitype, and I always fix after toning.
Add 200g sodium thiosulfate, 40g sodium carbonate and 8g sodium sulfite to 750ml water. Stir. When dissolved, add water to 1000ml. Dilue 1:3 for a working solution.
Typically I use two fixing baths. The first is the second one used for the previous print, which I then discard, the second is fresh. For both baths I use a small amount of the diluted fixer, just enough to go over the paper evenly with rocking of the tray.
Sandy
Thanks Lukas. I'll try to compare the results of two step tablets and see if there is any bleaching from the diluted deacified rapid fix.Lukas Werth said:Sandy noted the sodium carbonate which I completely forgot to mention, though I always add it, also to ammonium thiosulphate, and I think it is essential (it greatly reduces the bleach). I normally don't measure it, but add some teaspoons to a larger quantity until the bubbling more or less stops. One fixer I have used is more acid than another one, and therefore takes more.
If you want to use your 1:9 solution, try 1:19, I'd say.
Kodak Rapid Fix at that dilution and pH will cause VDB and Kallitypes to bleach, which BTW is the point of this thread.cjarvis said:Or you can use Kodak Rapid Fix sans hardener 1:10.
Yes.cjarvis said:Have you tested the pH of your water?
Colin,Don, did you have much success with the 1:19 dilution of your (normally) 1:9 fixer? I'm out of plain hypo for the long weekend and was going to try this. Thanks.
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