Using my N80 as a light meter for MF

[Steve Mack]

I have read, in large format forums, that some photographers use a Nikon or a Canon 35 mm film camera as a light meter. My Nikon N80 has Matrix, center-weighted and spot metering capabilities, so I was wondering if it would work as a light meter for my Mamiya 645 Pro.

My main question is this: should I use my 50mm f/1.8 lens to meter the scene, since I have an 80mm f2.8 on my Mamiya? I'm figuring that the 50mm is a 'standard lens' for the Nikon, same as the 80mm is a 'standard lens' for the Mamiya. Or would just about any lens work? I am assuming ISO settings for the Nikon would match the film speed on the Mamiya. (I use mostly Fuji 'chromes for making photos, ISO 125-160, + or -.) The other lens that I have that is auto focus for the Nikon is the 28-80 G lens, the little cheapo kit lens that came with the N80 when I bought it. BTW, this lens is really good, in spite of it seeming to be a little weak in the lashings, so to speak.

I have a really cheap light-powered light meter, reflected light, which did a bang-up job with color print film a couple of years back, but I want something geared toward slide film...

Thanks to all who reply.

With best regards.

Stephen

 

[thebanana]

If you set the ISO on your Nikon to match the speed of the film in your Mamiya, you should have no problem using it to meter accurately.

 

[Greg Campbell]

Absolutely!
Assuming you're using modern lenses with the N80 (so that the camera 'knows' the lens' aperture without needing to be stopped down), a single meter reading should allow the camera to generate any exposure recipe you could ask for.


Shooting slides, this works well for me: Spot meter whatever significant highlight (clouds, etc.) you wish to retain texture and detail. Then dial in 1.5 ~ 2 stops of extra exposure. Depending on your camera's meter, and the film you shoot, you'll need to experiment a little to determine exactly where the highlights start to block up.

 

[2F/2F]

If you can get ideal exposures with that meter, then by all means, use it. However, you can almost certainly get better exposures and get them more quickly, understandably, and reliably (not to mention while carrying far less bulk and weight) by using an incident light meter. There is also far less chance for operator error. (In other words, they are pretty much idiot proof, unlike a reflected meter.) Something to think about before your next lens or accessory purchase. They are cheap, will last you for decades, and will do you more good than any other non-camera/lens piece of equipment (followed shortly by a decent tripod).

Barring the incident meter, you can just get a grey card, point it at the light for which you want to meter, meter it with your 35mm, set your Mamiya to 1/2 stop over the reading, and shoot. You will have the same exposure as an incident meter this way, just with more monkeying about...but, hey. They're five bucks new, probably free used. Can't beat that.

 

[moouers]

I use my N80 as a light meter for my RB67 when needed. It works very well. I would like to get a dedicated light meter that can spot meter, but I simply don't have the money. When my N80 does the trick, the money can be better spent elsewhere for now. I take all my cameras with me in my photo backpack anyway (I don't have many!) so the extra bulk is already there

 

[jtzordon]

I've tried such a thing. It works, but what a pain! If that's what you have, use it. If you can get a light meter, I'd recommend you do so.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I use my Nikon F-100 with a Nikon 28mm to 200mm zoom lens as a spot meter for my Hasselblad.

If I am using my Hasselblad SWC and do not have the Hasselblad, I use the same Nikon as for average readings.

Steve

 

[Greg Campbell]

I guess some don't like the extra weight of an overgrown SLR light meter. Fair enough.
FWIW, I'm happy to carry around a big T-90 (and often an extra lens!) as a second camera. My MF is 6x6, some subjects don't fit nicely in the square format (or need a wider/deeper FOV.)