Using manual focus lenses on electronic Nikon film cameras with manual focus confirmation. What do you trust more?

albireo said:

For what it's worth.. Quick test.

Two sequential shots.

Left: I focused manually, using the focus aid in the viewfinder until it reached the 'O' position
Right: I focused visually, ie I stopped searching when I decided the image was sharpest on the screen.

Note: I always use the second method (my eyes) with all my lenses and all my cameras. I always get tack sharp images. I think what this 'test' suggests is that there is a mismatch between the distance detected by the AF sensor and used by the focus aid, and the distance rendered on the focusing screen. I thought this was interesting and I wonder if it's time to send the camera for a CLA. Or perhaps I'll just bin it and look for a new one.

Click to expand...

Sirius Glass said:

The openings on the plastic bin and the sponge[?] that sticks up are much sharper on the left. I have found that except for focusing on closer branches or dirt on a glass screen, the AF focuses sharper, faster and more consistently except if the focus point or points are on very low contrast or very low light.

Click to expand...

ic-racer said:

To fix your camera, there is usually an adjustment on the secondary mirror and a software adjustment, but I believe the Rollei Hy6 is the only film camera in which the focus point can be adjusted in the camera without additional software.

Click to expand...

George Mann said:

I use an F90x with Ai/Ai-S lenses. I also use the optional J type focus screen with it.

I find the electronic rangefinder to be accurate enough that I don't have to depend on the custom focus screen when there is sufficient contrast at the point of focus.

The same can be said with my D2x/D300s.

Click to expand...