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Using manual focus lenses on electronic Nikon film cameras with manual focus confirmation. What do you trust more?

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For what it's worth.. Quick test.

Two sequential shots.

Left: I focused manually, but following the focus aid in the viewfinder until it reached the 'O' position
Right: I focused manually and visually, ie by looking at the image getting sharper on the focusing screen - as you would do with a manual focus camera without focus aid.

Note: I always use the second method (my eyes) with all my lenses and all my cameras. I always get tack sharp images. I think what this 'test' suggests is that there is a mismatch between the distance detected by the AF sensor and used by the focus aid, and the distance rendered on the focusing screen. I thought this was interesting and I wonder if it's time to send the camera for a CLA. Or perhaps I'll just bin it and look for a new one.

Pvrybbw.jpg
 
Last edited:
For what it's worth.. Quick test.

Two sequential shots.

Left: I focused manually, using the focus aid in the viewfinder until it reached the 'O' position
Right: I focused visually, ie I stopped searching when I decided the image was sharpest on the screen.

Note: I always use the second method (my eyes) with all my lenses and all my cameras. I always get tack sharp images. I think what this 'test' suggests is that there is a mismatch between the distance detected by the AF sensor and used by the focus aid, and the distance rendered on the focusing screen. I thought this was interesting and I wonder if it's time to send the camera for a CLA. Or perhaps I'll just bin it and look for a new one.

Pvrybbw.jpg

The openings on the plastic bin and the sponge[?] that sticks up are much sharper on the left. I have found that except for focusing on closer branches or dirt on a glass screen, the AF focuses sharper, faster and more consistently except if the focus point or points are on very low contrast or very low light.
 
The openings on the plastic bin and the sponge[?] that sticks up are much sharper on the left. I have found that except for focusing on closer branches or dirt on a glass screen, the AF focuses sharper, faster and more consistently except if the focus point or points are on very low contrast or very low light.

Exactly. Forgot to say I focused on that plastic bin, centre.
 
I use an F90x with Ai/Ai-S lenses. I also use the optional J type focus screen with it.

I find the electronic rangefinder to be accurate enough that I don't have to depend on the custom focus screen when there is sufficient contrast at the point of focus.

The same can be said with my D2x/D300s.
 
To my eye, the bin that you focused using the focus aid seems sharper.
 
To fix your camera, there is usually an adjustment on the secondary mirror and a software adjustment, but I believe the Rollei Hy6 is the only film camera in which the focus point can be adjusted in the camera without additional software.

the old story; if something is adjustable it must be adjusted.
 
I use an F90x with Ai/Ai-S lenses. I also use the optional J type focus screen with it.

I find the electronic rangefinder to be accurate enough that I don't have to depend on the custom focus screen when there is sufficient contrast at the point of focus.

The same can be said with my D2x/D300s.

I find Nikon autofocus and auto exposure beyond any criticism.
 
The image on the right, focused by eye on the focusing screen, looks sharper further away, that is the lens was a little too close to the film, which suggests the focusing screen is a little too far away from the lens.

The camera in question is an F-801s with a removable focusing screen, the first thing I would try is reseating the screen, and looking for any obstructions or loose bits there. I don't think it's possible to install that screen the wrong way around, but that is something to check.

Although the autofocus system doesn't use the main mirror, it typically uses a second mirror hanging behind it to redirect light to the AF sensor, so the fact that the AF system is correct makes me not suspect the mirror.
 
Yes get a new camera and move on. I’m always curious so I save all my cameras and sometimes years later figure out the issue.
 
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