Using colour Polaroid - help

[Matt5791]

I am going to be photographing a selection of Hot Tubs and spas for a website next week. I will be using Hasselblad and fuji 160S col neg.

I want to take test exposures on polaroid (I have a polaroid back) and really I'm looking for tips here as I'm not familiar with Polaroid films at all.

I have 40 sheets of 669 colour Polaroid 80ASA film.

I will be using studio flash

Any advice would be gratefully received!

Thanks
Matt

 

[Frank R]

I have a little experience with using Polaroid films with my 4x5 view cameras. I Use the polaroid film to check my focus, exposure and composition. I do not use it to check the color; the chemicals produce a different look.

If I am not mistaken, shouldn't you be using Polaroid film that matches the ASA of your Fuji film if you want to check the exposure?

 

[9circles]

You should be trying to match your film and pola ASA as Frank said - then its a case of take test shot - wait until developed - check to see whether the exsosure is as you would like. However I wouldnt really recommend 669 for this use as the colours are somewhat muted - its works brilliantly for transfers and lifts and for a particular pastel polaroid look - get some fuji FP-100C which will give you a good tonal range and you'd get a much better idea of your final results.
Also the Fuji is cheaper (7.99 from 7dayshop) If you want shot of your 669 gimme a shout

Cheers

Ian

 

[keithwms]

I also prefer fuji fp100b and fp100c for proofs. But since you have the other stuff, sure, you can use it. I just wouldn't trust the colour info at all! Also the exposure latitude will be very different, with proofing film you actually want narrow latitude.

I don't see any major issue with having mismatched ASA. People have been using pola 55 for ages and in that case the exposure for the pos is ~2 stops different from that for the neg. No big deal.

 

[HerrBremerhaven]

Your other Polaroid choice is 690, which is more saturated than 669. The contrast is slightly different, and red tones are rendered much closer to film results. The Fuji FP100C is somewhat between 669 and 690 in tonal response, so that would be another alternative.

Ciao!

Gordon Moat
Dead Link Removed

 

[PHOTOTONE]

It is advisable to get as close as you can with ISO's between polaroid and conventional film because it is easier to interpret exposure compensations between the polaroid proof and the film, however in your case, you got a Polaroid film of ISO 80, and a camera film of ISO 160, an easy 1 stop change. Meter your scene at the ISO of your camera film, then open up one stop for polaroid test. Don't forget to close back down for camera film, though!!

 

[PHOTOTONE]

The color palate of Polaroid film is so far removed from the palate of conventional transparency film, that at one time I used to shoot b/w polaroids for client approval, so they wouldn't ask about the color balance.

 

[Matt5791]

OK - I've been practicing loading the film in the Hassleblad back -

Is it my inexperience or:

- Is the black paper surround which you poke through the rollers and out of the casing, supposed to just pull straight out and leave no tab to get hold of? Its happened twice now.

- Are the white paper tabs which you pull each sheet through with supposed
to rip off very easily leaving the end of the sheed impossible to get hold of without opening the back?

- what are the consequenses of openiong up the back having once removed the black paper wrap? - I still got some images so I guess it doesnt cause wholesale fogging.

Thanks for any help,
Matt.

 

[9circles]

Black sheet pulls out and leaves white tab protruding. White tab pulls (with print) at development time leaving new tab. Occasionally this will rip in which case you open the back enough to get you finger in and press the cartridge tight against camera then open it further and feed the white tab.
Havent had a fogged pic when doing this at all. Its happens if you pull it at an angle rather than straight and firm. Theres some info on the Pola site about having to do this.

Cheers

Ian

 

[Philippe-Georges]

If you want the pola's to be as close as possible to the film-shots (density, contrast and colour), then keep the polafilm at the same temperature when exposing as you would develop them. This is particularly important when shooting outside at rather 'unpleasant' temperatures.

Good luck,
Philippe

 

[elliot_n]

OK - I've been practicing loading the film in the Hassleblad back -

Is it my inexperience or:

- Is the black paper surround which you poke through the rollers and out of the casing, supposed to just pull straight out and leave no tab to get hold of? Its happened twice now.

Thanks for any help,
Matt.

I guess you've got it figured out by now, but you don't feed anything 'through the rollers'. You just drop the pack of polaroid film in the holder and close it.

As others have suggested, Fuji FP100C is the best instant film for your purposes. When shooting 160ASA colour neg, I always give the film the same exposure as the FP100C (i.e. 100ASA).

 

[Matt5791]

I guess you've got it figured out by now, but you don't feed anything 'through the rollers'. You just drop the pack of polaroid film in the holder and close it.

As others have suggested, Fuji FP100C is the best instant film for your purposes. When shooting 160ASA colour neg, I always give the film the same exposure as the FP100C (i.e. 100ASA).

Really!!! I have had a terrible time with this Polaroid - I have gone through 30 sheets now and I dont have one print to show for it!!!

So its starting to get rather pricey.....

I will try just putting the pack in, although I dont see how this will work.....?? I guess it will figure itself out.

I have mainly had problems with the tabs just ripping off, however gentle and careful I am....

I almost threw the back in the bin at one point.