I too have had this problem -- which is typically solved by leaving them turned on for while. On one of my flashes it took a couple of hours. It might only be a problem with thyristor units, but I'm not sure about that.
I too have had this problem -- which is typically solved by leaving them turned on for while. On one of my flashes it took a couple of hours. It might only be a problem with thyristor units, but I'm not sure about that.
This is due to the fact that the electrolytic power capacitors in flashes have to be 're-formed' periodically by being charged and left powered on with a charge for an hour. It used to be that flash manufacturers advised users to do this every quarter, or some other frequency. Metz advised to do this every 3 months for 10 minutes.
Thyristors do nothing but shunt unused electricity charge back into the power capacitor to reduce recycle time, so have nothing to do with autoflash sensing or power capacitor periodic maintenance.
Thanks for the clarification. Probably a lot of people have thrown out completely good flashes as a result.
Along the same lines, I suppose lots of people use the test button to fire off the flash when they turn it off. The instructions for one of my SUNPAK flashes stated not to do that -- just turn it off, and leave the "juice " alone.
Merely a simpler version of what I posted several posts before .
I think I started with a Vivitar 273 (?), but a couple of 283s followed, plus many more thereafter.
Caution though - batteries left in a flash can end up killing it.
With the 283, 285 Vivitars, too thin, to short, electrical wires on the right sidewall, flash facing away from you will corrode at contact points and besides the plastic foot, seems to be the places most likely to fail but otherwise, these are still great flash units, IMO, and their many accessories, including the flash mounted bounce light panels, may be a great fill flash assistant.