Does any one have any experience of using Ilford fp4+ at 125 ISO for flash photography? I have some T-Max 400 on order, but fear it won't arrive before a gig I will be going to.
In 35mm format, I've only developed 4 or 5 films before and wonder if I can get away with a 125 ISO film using a flash
Any 100 ISO B/W film will work fine with flash in appropriate circumstances but flash is a totally different technique to photography using available light.
What sort of light will be available?
When I talk about 'gigs' I usually mean live music - with stage lights. This is one situation where flash isn't a good idea. It kills the atmosphere - and usually pisses off the audience and performers, too.
Thanks, yes live music, but there's not really a lot of stage light as it is a pretty small venue, I don't think there will be enough light use any kind of action shutter speed. I'll be one of the musicians anyway, and I don't think the others will mind. I suspect I'll blow a few rolls experimenting
Easy answer is use what you have. The gig will pass with no photos at all if you wait. The flash photos may give a great result. Most of the 1960s concerts were photographed with Plus-X or Tri-X with flash. I remember famous flash photos of Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones that had an amazing look.
If the important subject matter is within the flash range then FP4+ will be fine but as Steve has said you might lose some of the "reality". Available light shots are often better but depending on the intensity of the available light, I don't think I go to 400 although some 400 can be pushed successfully to 1600. I'd go with really fast film such as D3200 or maybe Fuji Neopan 1600.
The test is easy. Once your gig is set up with the lighting decide on a suitable exposure speed and aperture and adjust the film speed dial until that can be reached. Whatever the film speed dial says the film has to be then that is your required film speed.
Stage shots at night can still look good at EI 6400 or even 12,500. You lose most of the shadow detail but that hardly matters in such shots. In fact gig shots might look strange if there was the usual normal daylight shadow detail.
Thanks for the tips, I actually just played that night instead of taking any pictures. I have both fp4+ and T-Max 400 now, I can try both this week and see the difference.
Stage shots at night can still look good at EI 6400 or even 12,500. You lose most of the shadow detail but that hardly matters in such shots. In fact gig shots might look strange if there was the usual normal daylight shadow detail.
Which is why it's a good idea to under expose from the setting your meter suggests as your meter is trying to make the scene look like a 'normal' 18% grey daylight scene whereas the reality is quite a bit darker. This is assuming a general ambient light reading. If you are doing a reading from a grey card or skin tone then it will be o.k. as it is.
In the 1940's I photographed basketball games on Kodachrome, Weston speed 12, using #5 flashbulbs. So yes, you should have no problem using FP4+ with flash.
I also have photographed in dimly lit jazz clubs with FP4+ and no flash.
IMO, with flash you want slow speed film. You have an incredibly bright light at your disposal, thus eliminating the need for fast film. Especially in a setting like the one you are describing, go with the slow, you won't be disappointed.
IMO, with flash you want slow speed film. You have an incredibly bright light at your disposal, thus eliminating the need for fast film. Especially in a setting like the one you are describing, go with the slow, you won't be disappointed.