Unicolor drum processing of paper negatives?

I need to motor process paper negatives in the next few months and I'm asking for tips on using Ilford RC processing, developer, stop, plain hypo, Ilford method for washing for rotation or standard tank, staining in selenium, additional steps, such as Hypo Clear in rotation, and whatever you've experience with.

Cheers

Eli, I would think it pretty straight forward the same as tray development. Start with what you do now in trays and check the results. As for toning, I wouldn't do that in a drum, I always watch the results as I tone and stop when I see what I like. Every print is different. If you have a fixed time you tone all your prints already then you could probably use that as a starting time. The caveat here is you will need to experiment.

The Unidrum II instructions are here.

The minimum volume for the tank (about 55ml) should be enough Dektol to develop to completion. Dektol capacity is about 31ml per 8x10.

So, pretty much use your usual times. For RC, the Hypo Clear won't speed up things much. I'd just go by the Ilford instructions.

Cheers, guys.

I mainly used the drums and roller base for Cibachrome prints and only a few RC prints, which I did not make notes on, so I'm relearning, largely in part for paper negatives and exposed, original Polaroid paper, stripped from the instant packs, and exposed in Speed Graphic cameras.

Developer suggestions for original Polaroid print papers are welcomed.

Paper negatives are just like paper prints. Probably any print processing drum from the 1980s hayday of such equipment will work well. I learned "color" with Cibachrome. I used and still have the Cibachrome branded drums from Ilford. Their primary advantage is that they pull apart easily to fully clean and dry all surfaces, which many other styles of drum do not. One "tip" for processing in general. If you are planning to do paper negatives, consistency is everything. Use developer "one shot" and toss. Do not pour it back in your stock bottle and reuse a mix of new and old. Any savings from reuse is trivial, and your reliability will go to hell over time.

Whatever paper you use, just make sure there are no "watermarks" on the back.

The effects of paper negatives vary depending on the thickness of the paper negative. I've only done it with thin, fiber-based paper. RC paper is pretty thick in comparison.