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Underexposed Delta 400 - 2 stops

Jarvman

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Hello, sorry for a boring topic that's been done to death. I exposed what could have potentially been a very nice shot by 2 stops using Delta 400. A contrasty shot of an Indian bodybuilder by a bright barred gym window. It was at 1/500th instead of 1/125th. My intention was to dev in pyro, which for underexposure I know is a big no no. Gutted about not being able to use pyro because it would've made printing a great deal easier and would've resulted in a far nicer print. I was thinking of pushing it in XTOL or microphen by a little under 2 stops. I'm hesitant about doing so though because I'll have to sacrifice the other 11 shots on the roll and may end up increasing the contrast of an already contrasty scene, rendering it unprintable. Was wondering whether a semi-stand technique could come in with pushing. Any help would be great. Many thanks. Gareth
 

steven_e007

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Was it the first or last shot on the roll?

You could always try and snip that frame off in the darkroom and process it separately. Use a previously developed film as a guide to make a cardboard gauge to let you know where to cut.

Obviously you will ruin one frame because you'll never manage to find the edges of the frame accurately enough (better to sacrifice the next frame and aim for the centre of it) - but maybe better to waste 1 frame than 11?

Even if it is in the middle, maybe better to waste 2 than 11?
 
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Jarvman

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The idea crossed my mind Steve. It was the last shot. Sounds like it could work perhaps. Anyone ever done that before?
 

Rick A

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Yes, it's done more often than not. In the old days it was very common.
 
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Jarvman

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Phew, sounds like I have a way out of a bind. Delta 400 looks a bit crap pushed though. Pretty grainy. Will have to deal with that though.
 

steven_e007

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The idea crossed my mind Steve. It was the last shot. Sounds like it could work perhaps. Anyone ever done that before?

I've done it a few times, although not usually for a mistake. If I have a half used film in the camera that needs to be pushed, say, and then next time I use the camera I know that pushing would be the wrong way to develop, then sometimes I'll cut the film in two. Works best for 35 mm because you can rewind the film, then reload in the dark room and shoot off as many shots as you need with the lens cap on and then open the back (in the dark) and cut reasonably accurately in the right place. Roll film is a bit harder because it is more difficult find the right place and obviously you don't want to cut through the frame you are trying to save.

Of course, the shot that you put the scissors through is ALWAYS the best shot on he roll
 

pentaxuser

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With an accurate measure based on other Delta films through your camera it might be accurate enough to just cut a little into the next frame so it might be useable with just a little bit of the endge of the neg cut off.

Only you know whether the next frame needs to be saved

pentaxuser
 
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Jarvman

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The other frame was nothing special so it should be all good. I could've had more time with the guy experimenting with different exposures so there wouldn't be a problem now. Some young joker entered and ruined his composure though so he put his vest on and left. I turned up to the place the next day hoping to re-shoot but missed the guy by half an hour. One of the other fellas said he was wondering whether myself and a mate would be their shooting again. I've been seriously sloppy with technique on this trip. I can't bleedin concentrate in India. Too hectic. What dev to use to get the finest grain and most manageable highlights? Are XTOL, Ilford DDX or HC110 good choices?
 
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Jarvman

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Here it is in case you ever wondered!
 

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markbarendt

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So what did you end up developing it in?
 
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Jarvman

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I think it was Xtol in the end or possibly Ilford DD-X. Most likely the first.
 

markbarendt

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Did it come close to what you wanted from the shot?
 
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Jarvman

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Yeah, definitely considering the other shots from the previous roll of the same subject juiced in pyro had nowhere near the same amount of detail