John_Brewer said:I think that you use 'normal' film. Kodak certainly did have a paper on UV photography, ten years ago, I had a copy. UV light makes certain things fluoresce ie emit electromagnetic radiation which can be photographed using regular film. By eliminating normal light and using black light tubes you will get the best result. Some things including certain rocks give a completely different colour than under natural light others like some fungi (the ringworm fungus is one) just glow a violet colour. Fluorescing agents are added to many products like washing powder/liquid and paper so they seem "whiter than white" ( to quote the Daz ads in the UK) under strong sources of UV eg sunlight.
glbeas said:http://www.naturfotograf.com/uvstart.html#top
http://www.naturfotograf.com/UV_flowers_list.html#top
Dead Link Removed
http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mainpage.htm
This will keep you busy for a while!
eumenius said:Yes, as many people here have mentioned already, every B/W material is able to record UV image. The main problem in that case is own fluorescence of some organic compounds and especially film base in UV, what can give overall flare, halo, and ruin the contrast of the image. To record the shortest UV (we had such a need in our lab once), I remember we had to coat the regular non-sensitized photo plate with some kind of synthetic mineral oil, giving a strong visible excitation fluorescence at 205-215 nm wavelength, or close to. That was a kind of sensibilisation, done in a view camera
Cheers,
Zhenya
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