There is no way to scan a negative without some minimum adjustment. When you print optically you will have to set exposure time with a set of filtration to begin with. This is really the same when you scan a negative. You simply have to apply some adjustment to begin with. It is rather a basic setup for the scan than adjustment.
A lab operator would be incredibly non productive if he/she is forced to turn off all basic auto functions, such as auto exposure and auto color balance.
Most, if not all, of the scans would be way off and will need a lot of manual adjustment to get the scans to look OK. If you own a film scanner you can try to turn off auto exposure and auto color balance. You will understand how difficult or impossible to scan films without them.
so what you're saying is its balanced for a certain density......
I understand having a set of baseline scanner setting to match say the Superia 400 I sent.
Beyond that I don't want the lab to do anything to the proof.
Is that such a tall order?
Don't care because I'm not asking for any fixes.
Again, as a customer, I don't care.
What I do know is that one lab turns off their auto correct and I get the results I expect, the other tries fixing everything and I don't.
There was a third lab in town that went out of business a few months back, they had the same problem, always trying to fix it.
I agree, most mini-labs are geared to printing for comsumers. Also the digtal proof sheets have built in corrections. The older printers had ways to "lock" expusure & color but not the newer digtal ones.
Michael
This whole discussion is more proof, at least in my mind, of why control negs are useful even in digital minilabs. Having a dedicated film chanel for each emulsion should give much more consistent results, and is something you are certainly able to do on a frontier. I've worked in consumer labs for almost 6 years now, and have made it a point at every frontier lab to register a kodak BWCN and ilford XP2 chanel. I've found most lab jockeys either don't realize the frontier has a greyscale button, or don't think customers will notice their b/w prints are now green and white. By registering a DX code, and using some aperion target negs, 20 minutes later, every time you put in either film, it recognizes the DX code and works perfectly.
Bob,
This is exactly what I expect as a consumer. I want a standardized, stable, predicable, repeatable process. In essence I want a robot doing it and a human making sure the robot is working as expected.
Often something is lost in the shadows, or the scene appears too bright or dark, so you play with the density.
Mark,
Well said.
That is why I have my C-41 processing and prints done at Costco for 35mm film and Samys for 120 film.
Steve
so you're letting them print on a machine that doesn't use film channels unless they're manually built by the tech and is set to make automatic corrections a slow clap for you.
Bob,
I think that what Steve might be inferring, and I know I'm inferring, is that it is better to have a well maintained machine that is run by somebody that is paid only to make sure the machine works well, than it is to have someone who knows nothing about what I want messing with my shots.
At least in the former case the processing will be consistent.
it really won't. The machine will make a different decision almost every time you put the neg in.
Yes and no. Even by the time fuji made it to the SFA series, automatic density and ACCS correction was a matter of life. You could dial in ADDITIONAL CMY filtration or density settings and press a hold key, but the machine still did something. Turning off the ACCS(automated color correction service-auto exposure and color balance) was generally more of a hindrance than a help
Bob
When I worked in a lab we had Noritsu printers. There were no way to print with out corrections on the Digital printers we had.
The last optical print we had I could lock exposure and color.
Michael
Bob,
I think that what Steve might be inferring, and I know I'm inferring, is that it is better to have a well maintained machine that is run by somebody that is paid only to make sure the machine works well, than it is to have someone who knows nothing about what I want messing with my shots.
At least in the former case the processing will be consistent.
I used to run a semi-pro lab. When I taught printers to classify negs, the easiest way was to try and identify the main subject. Of course what we thought was the main point of focus may not have necessarily been what you wanted it to be.
My best advice is to find a lab where the manager actually takes an interest in what they do - not just a "job". Talk to them when you drop the film off and explain what you are trying to achieve. When you pick them up, have a good look and ask for anything that isn't quite right to be re-printed. Any lab worth its weight will be happy to redo for you - if they grumble and seem unhelpful change. You'll never get a good result from them no matter what you say or do.
This is the crux of the issue Nanette. P&S'ers may want "finished" 4x6's, I don't, I want proofs that show me exactly what I did.
...
The only real fix, it seems, is to process and contact print for myself at home.
I think you need to adjust your expectations. ...
I will go all optical at some point, but whew, I think I'll load up some tri-x and forget this color frustration!
Jeff Glass
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