Type 55 clearing unsuccessful, why?

dealy663 · Oct 10, 2005

Hi,

I've just tried to clear my first batch of Type 55 p/n and am left with residue on several negs. I've used the standard 1lb of Kodak sodium sulfite in 2 litres of water, and left the negs in there for more than an hour but still couldn't get the last bits of gunk off of them. I tried putting them under running water but that made no difference.

I'm in so cal, so the temperature is in the low seventies. What could I be doing wrong? Everything I've read says that this should be a process that lasts a minute or two, not hours.

Thanks in advance, Derek

Alex Hawley · Oct 10, 2005

Hi Derek,

I have found Type 55 negs clear more easily if I soak them in water for at least a half-hour before clearing them. Just a tray with room temperature tap water will do. You will see the gel dissolving into the water. You can also clear them with plain water by soaking them for an hour or two, then rinsing them off.

By the way, I use Heico Perma-Wash to clear mine, mixed 25 ml/L.

Sean · Oct 11, 2005

The only time I have had the gunk issue was when the clearing solution was not fresh. I use a clearing+hardening solution that does both in 1 step and it works very good. The formula is:

Ingredient
Amount (Metric)
Amount (English)
Potassium alum
30 gm
1 oz.
Sodium sulfate (not sulfite)
90 gm
3 oz.
Water
1 L
1 qt.

David A. Goldfarb · Oct 11, 2005

Sometimes you have to rub off the placenta (well, that's what I've come to think of it as) a bit with your fingers. I do that and alternate between the sulfite bath and running water until it's clear, then rinse, then treat with Sistan, then hang to dry.

dealy663 · Oct 11, 2005

hmm, I was thinking of doing that

I was thinking of trying to rub it off with my fingers, but was worried that I'd mess up the negs. I'm gonna leave them soaking in the sulfite over nite, and then have a go at them tomorrow.

So far this Type 55 stuff hasn't really been any easier than I would suspect doing drum development of TMax or Tri-X would be. I guess its just 'cause this is unfamiliar and that I'm maybe overly worried about scratching the negs.

Bob F. · Oct 11, 2005

dealy663 said:
I was thinking of trying to rub it off with my fingers, but was worried that I'd mess up the negs. I'm gonna leave them soaking in the sulfite over nite, and then have a go at them tomorrow.

So far this Type 55 stuff hasn't really been any easier than I would suspect doing drum development of TMax or Tri-X would be. I guess its just 'cause this is unfamiliar and that I'm maybe overly worried about scratching the negs.

The emulsion is rather soft (which is why I keep meaning to get some Hypam hardener, but I don't use T-55 very often) but if you are careful, you can do the rubbing thing without damage. Just keep it wet while rubbing and keep finger nails away...

Interesting formula there Sean, do you know how long it will keep?...

Cheers, Bob.

gandolfi · Oct 11, 2005

just a quick note on how I have done it for years.
let the negatives soak in plain water. at least half an hour, but several hours aren't bad - just remember that the emulsion will be more fragile, the longer it stays in water.
then use your fingers/palm of your hand to remove the residue, under running water - it goes off very easily..
after that, fix for 5 min (I actually use normal fix) - rinse, and dry.
as said, be careful that your fingernails dont touch the emulsion....

janvanhove · Oct 12, 2005

I'm not doing the official thing I know, but running water and dip in dilute Agefix film fixer does it for my 55s...

PJ

jmdavis · Oct 12, 2005

Warm water 80 or so f with agitation can help. When I've shot on location, I've separated my negs in zip locks with 80f distilled water and by they've cleared.

But, I use agitation even with the clearing solution.

Mike

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