Two things regarding mixing chemicals

arigram · Apr 1, 2008

Two minor questions regarding the mixing of chemicals:

- Can one use handheld electric mixers to mix liquid and powder chemicals? They sell them in Greece for making Frape coffee, but I thought that they could be too violent and making too much foam.

- When you have just mixed a powder chemical into a high temperature liquid, is it fine to cool it rapidly by using the freezer and using it when it normalizes or is it not?

David A. Goldfarb · Apr 1, 2008

I think an electric mixer like a hand blender would mix too much air into developers, and you would want an oversized mixing container to use one with anything else to avoid spraying chemicals around the room or into your eyes. Definitely wear safety goggles.

I think it's okay to cool chemicals rapidly once they've dissolved. Some people use a bag of ice or immerse the chemical container in cold water. Another option would be to stir it with a frozen bottle of water. A similar method is used in commercial kitchens to cool large volumes of liquid--

http://www.zesco.com/products.cfm?subCatID=617&PGroupID=ZP99158002&ref=rottext

Edwardv · Apr 1, 2008

I use a paint mixer with a battery drill. Works great.

http://www.heylloyd.com/technicl/D23.html

I mix all chemical powder developers at 125 degrees. After mixing I immediately place in a 11x14 tray with cold water, when cooled, store them in amber glass bottles. Stock solution last for 6 months or longer.

Edwardv · Apr 1, 2008

Made a mistake. This is the link.

Dead Link Removed

Bruce Osgood · Apr 1, 2008

arigram said:
- Can one use handheld electric mixers to mix liquid and powder chemicals? They sell them in Greece for making Frape coffee, but I thought that they could be too violent and making too much foam.

I bought a $2 hand blender at a thrift store and it works just as David suggests: TOO MUCH AIR. You can wait a few minutes and the solution will clear visually. But I don't know if the blended/mixed product is any different having been puffed full of air.

I've stopped using mine.

gainer · Apr 1, 2008

I wonder if you couldn't fill the blender with liquid before you turn it on. Looks to me like the ony air in the blender is that which is there to start. If that's in the liquid to begin with, it shouldn't do much harm whether you use the blender or not. You could contrive a floating lid for the purpose.

arigram · Apr 1, 2008

I guess then I shouldn't try to make frappe with Ilfosol.
Thank you for your answers.

Photo Engineer · Apr 1, 2008

We used prop mixers at EK but kept the speed down so that air was not whipped into the solution. For 5 liters and under, we used a plunger affair which was hand held. It was a rod with a disk on the end. The disk had holes in it so that when the rod was moved up and down, it created huge turbulance but no air bubbles.

This latter was superb. We had them in two sizes.

PE

CRhymer · Apr 1, 2008

Photo Engineer said:
.....It was a rod with a disk on the end. The disk had holes in it so that when the rod was moved up and down, it created huge turbulance but no air bubbles......
PE

Hello,

Stainless steel? Plastic?

Cheers,
Clarence

dancqu · Apr 1, 2008

Edwardv said:
I mix all chemical powder developers at 125 degrees.

There very dilute working strength chemistry has the
advantage. I usually mix developers at or near full strength
days weeks or months ahead using warmed but under 125
degree water. Very dilute fixer is prepared at time of use.
The little sodium thiosulfate used dissolves quickly
at room temperature. Of course with the liquid
rapid fixers mix time is not an issue.

Home brewers using dilute chemistry might consider
mixing the all of it at time of use and at working
temperature. Dan

Curt · Apr 1, 2008

We used prop mixers at EK but kept the speed down so that air was not whipped into the solution. For 5 liters and under, we used a plunger affair which was hand held. It was a rod with a disk on the end. The disk had holes in it so that when the rod was moved up and down, it created huge turbulance but no air bubbles.

This latter was superb. We had them in two sizes.

Same at ACCD, it was a plexiglas paddle with holes in it to avoid air entrainment. Move it slowly and let the turbulence do the mixing without having air introduced.

Photo Engineer · Apr 1, 2008

CRhymer said:
Hello,

Stainless steel? Plastic?

Cheers,
Clarence

High impact inert plastic.

PE

removed account4 · Apr 1, 2008

ari

i use a 5 gallon bucket sort of like this
and a wooden spoon that looks like this

nothing fancy here

john

Photo Engineer · Apr 1, 2008

John;

Wooden spoons can absorb chemicals and can then cause cross contamination. At Kodak, all wooden lab mixing equipment was strictly banned.

PE

removed account4 · Apr 1, 2008

thanks ron.

i should probably use something else, you are right ..
i have been using the same spoon since 1982

john

arigram · Apr 1, 2008

jnanian said:
thanks ron.

i should probably use something else, you are right ..
i have been using the same spoon since 1982

john

Something tells me you also eat with it...

ntenny · Apr 1, 2008

jnanian said:
i have been using the same spoon since 1982

Well, you know, there's *contamination*, and then there's *seasoning*, and it's really a very fine line between the two...

-NT

removed account4 · Apr 1, 2008

jnanian said:
thanks ron.

i should probably use something else, you are right ..
i have been using the same spoon since 1982

john

nooooo,
it stays in the dark ....

Edwardv · Apr 1, 2008

Use stainless steel.

Two things regarding mixing chemicals

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