Tungsten lighting

monkeykoder

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
160
Format
35mm
What would be the downsides to using tungsten lighting in a small studio? I'm looking at cheap lighting setups I've looked into strobist style setups and studio flash setups and it seems to get any quality out of the deal I'm way above the budget of a serious amateur that is in college. It looks like the price difference between the daylight florescent and the tungsten setups is significant enough to consider the tungsten over the florescent if the same quality can be achieved. So for someone shooting B&W for most play and probably willing to go with tungsten film for what little color I do what are the possible downsides? While I'm at it what would be the upsides other than color balance to the daylight CFLs?
 

2F/2F

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2008
Messages
8,031
Location
Los Angeles,
Format
Multi Format

The downsides would be heat, power consumption, low intensity, and that you have to buy bulbs more frequently (although they are cheaper than for flashes). The orange color of the lights also gives you limited options for color film, or requires a filter, which increases hassle and requires exposure compensation. The intensity disadvantage means that you will have a hard time with anything that is not still. I have hot lights, but fully appreciate flashes. If I shot portraits in studio at home, I would definitely invest in flashes instead.
 
OP
OP

monkeykoder

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
160
Format
35mm
If I were to go with a flash setup what is the best way to get a decent amount of light cheap when using 35mm for portraits for play only?
 

2F/2F

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2008
Messages
8,031
Location
Los Angeles,
Format
Multi Format
If I were to go with a flash setup what is the best way to get a decent amount of light cheap when using 35mm for portraits for play only?

Some used Sunpak 383s and slaves with homemade or used modifiers and stands would be *relatively* cheap, and would also allow you to easily pack it up and use it on location. Think thrift shop sheets, PVC piping, and foamcore.

If you can afford it, a potato masher with third stops would be a slightly more expensive, but better option. They have more power and more control than a 383. I believe the 511 is this way, but definitely not the 555, which is what I have.

Then again, some used studio flashes might be had for a bargain, and are obviously better suited to the job.

I trust you know that you have no modeling lamps with the Sunpaks. For this reason, *learning* on hot lamps is easier, IMO.
 
OP
OP

monkeykoder

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
160
Format
35mm
I still have a couple of months of relatively free time left to learn I figure starting with flash might be best to get the learning curve out of the way the one problem I see is I don't think my current light meter (a Nikon D50) is up to the task of being a flash meter.
 

2F/2F

Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2008
Messages
8,031
Location
Los Angeles,
Format
Multi Format

It's not the best light meter, but it will work. Don't expect the results to look exactly like your film, but it will at least give you a rough idea of the modeling you are getting, which will actually be far more helpful than a meter if you don't have any modeling lamps. Basically, you would be using the Nikon as a Polaroid. A bit of a PITA, but a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
OP

monkeykoder

Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
160
Format
35mm
That is the basic idea I'm just worried it might be so far off as to be useless. Then what the heck do I have that thing for.
 

MattKing

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Apr 24, 2005
Messages
53,008
Location
Delta, BC Canada
Format
Medium Format
If you can possibly stretch your budget to something like a Gossen Digiflash, or a Sekonic 308S, it will likely serve you well (both for flash and ambient light) for years.

Otherwise, there are cheap flash meters on eBay and otherwise. Even a Wein flashmeter will give you the opportunity to learn a lot about flash.

If you buy an older flash, be careful about the trigger voltage. I have a Bowens location kit with two monolights that works wonderfully well, but will fry the electronics of some of my newer cameras, if I don't use it carefully.

Matt
 
Cookies are required to use this site. You must accept them to continue using the site. Learn more…