MV Labs in New York City does all their developing of film by hand and are meticulous when it comes to printing. The Master Printer, Jim Megargee, will use whatever developer and dilution you want for the film you chose to use. He has taught film photography for over a decade and used to print for Annie Leibovitz for years. He will also give you feedback on your negatives as well as your images if you call and request it, which will help immensely when it comes to proper exposure, lighting, contrast, film type and developer combination (a lab that runs C-41 with black and white film won't be of much help in this area and will not help you grow very well or fast as a film photographer). At $25 for a roll developed and contacted, it can get pricey. But, what you learn will be of great help to you in the future and be well worth the money.
When it comes to film, I would recommend something widely available wherever you travel that will not likely be discontinued in the next 5 years. Some Kodak film and Ilford black and white might be your best bet. This way you can get predictable and consistent results every time.
When it comes to printing, any Master Printer will take your image and interpret it to the best of their ability. Printing can also get very pricey, but if you have the money, go for it. Even the greatest photographers don't do their own printing -they hire an assistant or a professional printer for the job.
For the record, my opinion is biased. I Intern at MV Labs. However, even when some interns leave the lab, they send their work to Jim because he's just that good. Photographers for Rolling Stones, Magnum, VII, etc. use him regularly because he's one of the best in the country.
Personally, if I were you, I'd do a mix of what you're suggesting. I would shoot a couple rolls, send them to a pro lab for processing, get feedback and then use that feedback to develop your own film. Once you "nail it", get a professional printer to do your selects if you don't have access to a darkroom. I would also consider a cheap 35mm negative scanner to get a better visual of what a "positive" will look like from you negative. From there you will have a learned a lot in a very short period of time and possibly saved a lot of time and money from a DIY trial and error approach. Also, read lots on this forum, but keep in mind this is all just opinions and starting points. You have to find out what works for you.
(and yes, whatever lab you choose, you will have to pay for shipping to and from the lab for film, prints, etc, etc. unless you can get there personally).