Trying out Tmax 100 in 35mm

I am test driving a couple of different emulsions looking for that medium speed film that would be good enough for me. My "go to" developers at the moment are D76/ID-11, HC110 and Rodinal.Of the three mentioned what would work best with Tmax 100 at box speed?

Cheers

Bill

Don't do eeet!

In all seriousness:

My favourite with TMX was XTOL 1:1, but of the developers you have, I'd try D76/ID-11 1:1 if convenient.

I'm just starting to play with HC-110 so I can't give you any intelligent answers.

TMX is pretty nice in Rodinal. You should get there at some point, but I think D-76 makes a better starting place.

Uncle Bill said:

I am test driving a couple of different emulsions looking for that medium speed film that would be good enough for me. My "go to" developers at the moment are D76/ID-11, HC110 and Rodinal.Of the three mentioned what would work best with Tmax 100 at box speed?

Cheers

Bill

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Tmax 100 works great for me with minimum agitation in:
Pyrocat - MC
XTOL
FX-2

Thus, I would expect to also work ok in D-23, D-76 and HC-110 (and in their Ilford versions) as well.

Also, you may find that you like the 1:100 or 1:50 dilutions of Rodinal.

Good Afternoon, Bill,

The HC-110 will work fine, as it does with almost any film, but I prefer T-Max Developer, 1:7 for 9-10 minutes.

Konical

The only good results I ever had with T-Max were with Rodinal, but at an EI of 64. IIRC, my tmes were from the MDC.

I use TMax 100 in 4X5 and 400 in 35mm. Both are developed in D-76H (without hydroquione) in Jobo rotary and I'm very happy with both.

I use this film a lot in 35mm because of it's extremely fine grain and the little bit of extra red sensitivity. XTOL 1+1 is my usual soup for the film, but I have no complaints at all with D-76 at the same dilution. I paired it with Rodinal a long time ago. Not so good. I'm not used to seeing grain when inspecting an 8x print up close with this film. It shows when developed in Rodinal. The characteristic curve is strange too. Usually this film captures shadow detail very well. The film is more sensitive to time and temperature variations than many, but if handled carefully it will reward you with good shadow and highlight detail. Rodinal is far too crude a developer for this film, and is not a good place to start. Use it for effect if you want, but not before you see what the film can do under more regular conditions. Kodak's recommended development times are the best place to start. See the tech sheet here: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof...s/f4016/f4016.pdf?id=0.2.26.14.17.16.14&lc=en . The folks who make this film do know what they are doing. Who you gonna believe, some mostly anonymous posting on the internet, or the people who make the stuff and have a vested interest in the customer getting a good result? 'Nuff said.

The folks who make this film do know what they are doing. Who you gonna believe, some mostly anonymous posting on the internet, or the people who make the stuff and have a vested interest in the customer getting a good result? 'Nuff said.

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What kind of argument is that? Companies "recommend" things for lots of reasons, most of which are not necessarily to help their customers! I thought everybody knew that already. And here you come, out of nowhere.

Actual customer experiences are what really counts. That's why amazon.com is so popular with their customer reviews of their products. These are NOT just anonymous postings on the internet!

Jeez, you ought to go live in a communist country, so easily brain washed.

Well, it looks like it's either going to be HC110 or D76/ID 11, thing is I want to try it with developers I am already familier with. I have Xtol package I want to mix up after I finish up this batch of ID 11 stock solution but since I have never used that developer before. It kinda sorta defeats the purpose of the test drive.
I arrived at my standardisation of TRi-x and Ilford HP5 (happy with both I will use what is in stock at the time) using D76 as my developer to level the playing field.

Rodinal is a great developer with Efke and Foma films but they are more an old school technology.

this is not much help but i began using t max developer for tmax 3200 speed film. it worked perfectly....i mean peferct. i used the massive development charts for the times and temps. i printed it with nothing other than a #3 filter in my darkroom. perfect. i am now going to try it for my 100 speed stuff too.....i can only hope it will be just as good.....

i have been souping my tmax100 in hc110 dil h for 7 min at 68degrees with nice results. i have not fully dialed it in yet but i am close.

eddie

jackc said:

What kind of argument is that? Companies "recommend" things for lots of reasons, most of which are not necessarily to help their customers! I thought everybody knew that already. And here you come, out of nowhere.

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Well, you know there are a lot of companies out there making exaggerated claims about their products. I know that, and so do lots of other people. Kodak is not one of them in my experience. All I can say is that I've used their recommendations and they work very well. We're not talking about books or records here, where the judgments are subjective. We are talking about measurable, quantifiable results - real numbers that can be charted and analyzed. Real numbers that you can reproduce and use as a starting point for your own purposes. Read the tech sheets available for Kodak's products. They are the most comprehensive in the business. Everything you need to know about their B&W film products is in there.

And I repeat, what's the value to Kodak if they release bad information? The customer buys the product once, has a bad result, and Kodak loses a customer. Makes no sense. Can they make mistakes? Sure. Do they try their best to fix it? You bet.

Of the deveopers you have on hand I would use undiluted D-76. If you can get it, Ilford Microphen work very well with TMX. You get full speed, decent grain, excellent sharpness and some contrast control.

The best negs I ever made with TMX was in Rodinal. I shot the film at an exposure index of 50, and then used a 1+75 dilution for an amount of minutes currently escaping my mind. I thought it was a brilliant combination. Very sharp and tight grain and super high acutance.
- Thomas