Trouble With Stainless Steel Reels and My Solution

Cholentpot · Feb 26, 2017

A few years back I picked up an Omega tank with two stainless reels for .99 at a Goodwill. I've tried again and again to use the blasted things and I've always failed.

A few weeks ago I was messing around with a practice roll and tried pushing the film on from the outside of the reel. After a few tries it worked! Last night I developed a 12 shot roll using this method of loading, after a few failures I got it on and developed the roll. No moons on the roll, no pinches or touching film.

I tried to google this method but I've come up short. Is there a nickname for this? I'm sure some desperate fella before me has tried this.

I attached a shot. Some Tri-X Pan that came in a bulk loader that we given to me. No clue on age. I was testing out the calibration of a C3.

bsdunek · Feb 26, 2017

You might do this with a 12-exp. strip, but I doubt it would work with a 36-exp. roll. One of the problems is, if the reel has been dropped, or in any way, bent. I probably won't work any more. Even if it looks good it can be a problem.
I've been loading SS reels for about 70 years and an successful 97% of the time, so don't feel bad. Some films are harder to load than others. Foma comes to mind. Fine film as far as making good negatives goes, but I always have trouble loading it onto a SS reel. Tri-X should be easier to load. Sacrifice a 36-exp. strip and practice loading it in daylight. You can develop the skill that way. Good luck!

Alan9940 · Feb 26, 2017

FWIW, over all the years I've been using stainless steel film reels I've found Kindermann reels to be the easiest to load; they are on the expensive side, though. I find the clip mechanism they use on the inside core to be much easier to attach the film end without creating creases, scratches, etc. This is especially true with 35mm reels. A couple of tricks that works for me to ensure I've loaded the film properly is: 1) with 120 film, once the entire roll is loaded I push the end of the film back into the reel until it stops; if it moves easily the film is loaded correctly (35mm is too tight on the reel to have any "play", 2) once the entire roll is loaded, I shake it slightly; if I hear the film moving a bit, I know I didn't mess anything up with the load.

Hope something I've said helps.

Leigh B · Feb 26, 2017

I've not used SS reels as long as Bruce, but almost.

Just push the edges of the film together, causing the film to bow outward.
Feed from the center. It straightens out and fills the spiral as it slides through your (dry) fingers.

- Leigh

faberryman · Feb 26, 2017

It is just a matter of sacrificing a 36 exposure roll of film and practicing with the lights on. Do it while your watching TV until it's second nature. Shouldn't take long. I'm not keen on using the inside clip. More trouble than it's worth. I just pick an empty slot and start winding.

Moopheus · Feb 26, 2017

For 35mm, my solution was Hewes reels. The little tabs make getting the film on so much easier. Reels to swear by, rather than at. For 120, I finally broke down and got a reel for my Jobo. Can do 2 rolls with way less chemistry that 2 in a tall steel tank.

bvy · Feb 26, 2017

Moopheus said:
For 35mm, my solution was Hewes reels. The little tabs make getting the film on so much easier. Reels to swear by, rather than at. For 120, I finally broke down and got a reel for my Jobo. Can do 2 rolls with way less chemistry that 2 in a tall steel tank.

Plus one for Hewes for 35mm. They practically load themselves. For 120, I'm using whatever cheap reels came with the tank I bought. Starting them is the hardest part.

Cholentpot · Feb 26, 2017

I've tried again and again in light with 12/24/36 sacrificed rolls. My reels are fine I think but I just can't get the hang of it. I have enough plastics but every once in a while I drag out the stainless for one more try.

bsdunek said:
You might do this with a 12-exp. strip, but I doubt it would work with a 36-exp. roll. One of the problems is, if the reel has been dropped, or in any way, bent. I probably won't work any more. Even if it looks good it can be a problem.
I've been loading SS reels for about 70 years and an successful 97% of the time, so don't feel bad. Some films are harder to load than others. Foma comes to mind. Fine film as far as making good negatives goes, but I always have trouble loading it onto a SS reel. Tri-X should be easier to load. Sacrifice a 36-exp. strip and practice loading it in daylight. You can develop the skill that way. Good luck!

So far I've had no trouble with 24/36 sacrifice rolls loading it on this way. I've gotta try developing and see if it works alright.

Jeff Bradford · Feb 26, 2017

Hewes reels practically load themselves. I had another style that had a spike in the center - you impale the end of the film onto the spike and then load normally. It worked better than the spring-clip style because it was easier to get the film centered. I can't recall the brand.

jvo · Feb 26, 2017

Never had a problem loading ss reels - until i tried fomapan 120!!! Absolutely a bear to start, all kinds of other handling issues i never experinced in 30 years with kodak.. didn't think it possible. i'll stick with tri-x - learned my lesson!!!

GRHazelton · Feb 27, 2017

I seem to have lost my mojo for SS reels! In about 1976 I processed 100 feet of 35mm Ektachrome that I'd shot in London and Paris in a 5 reel SS tank and had no difficulty loading the reels. Now.... I've pretty much gone over to Paterson after a few disastrous efforts with name-brand SS reels. Not fun, cursing and fumbling in the dark!

haziz · Feb 27, 2017

Another vote for Hewes reels. Easy, effortless loading in both 35 mm and 120 reels. I suspect your reels may have been dropped/warped. Also make sure you are loading with the spiral, it is hard to explain but there is a direction/orientaion you should be loading in.

Harry Stevens · Feb 27, 2017

Like Paterson reels you do not have to be in the dark to start the a 35mm film off, there is always enough leader to center your film on a stainless reel or past the bearings on a plastic Paterson type then go into the dark, I always unload direct from the film canister onto the reels. Obviously not applicable to 120 film but the best advice I got about loading the film on steel is mentioned in in post 3, you can freely slide the film in and out slightly as you are loading it and then you know it is correctly loading,it's a knack you learn quickly.

A dummy/pratice roll of 35mm is one of the best tools you could own, in the UK a 24 exposure poundland colour is a pound well spent for the job even though it slightly hurts when you expose/ruin it.

guangong · Feb 27, 2017

In times past a kind of automatic loader was available for steel reels. Two arms slipped externally on to the reel, a chute like tongue dropped into the reel, film inserted into chute and fasted to reel center, rotate reel and, presto, reel loaded with no problems. This is only available for 35mm. For 120, curved plate is held in the palm and film wound onto reel. Again, perfect every time. Sadly, I don't believe these gadgets are available anymore.

DWThomas · Feb 27, 2017

During a discussion similar to this several years back I noted a Hewes 120 reel I had recently bought was way easier to load than a no-name reel I had been using. Curious, I got out my vernier calipers and measured the spacing between the spirals at four points around the reel, roughly 90º apart (using the radial supporting wires as indicators). I found the width variations in the no-name reel were about three times greater than the Hewes. And though the no-name was older, it had seen only light service and careful handling, so I assume it was just manufactured to lower tolerances. Out of this I suggest that an old reel bought used could easily have problems from being abused somewhere along the way (or even bad from the start).

I've not tried "adjusting" the no-name, but I suppose a very careful and patient craftsperson might be able to do that.

mgb74 · Feb 27, 2017

The Hewes reels are better. I was skeptical but, after trying, I'm a believer. They seem to have heavier metal for the spirals; perhaps they're better at resisting damage.

Kindermann reels (at least the 35mm ones) are 2nd best for me. I've also had good experience with Nikor reels.

In my mind there are 2 requirements for easy loading into a good reel: making sure the film is straight in the reel (not at an angle) and have the proper bend in the film to allow insertion but also to snap into the grooves. That's what those devises in post #15 do.

Find a good reel that works. Practice with scrap film. Then treat it like you would a camera (i.e. don't drop or bang it around).

Gerald C Koch · Feb 28, 2017

Using a practice roll watch what you are doing when the roll kinks. But first try this. With your thumb alone one edge, your third and fourth fingers along the other and your index finger in the center cup the film slightly as you wind from the center of the spiral. However if the film once kinks it will never load properly again. The trick then is to start from the other end of the roll so the kinked portion is the last bit to load. It's a bit like playing a musical instrument where you have to train your muscle memory with practice. Once you learn to do it correctly you will never again have any problem.

As mentioned in a previous thread, if the reel has been damaged so that the two spirals are no longer aligned then it will never work. Just toss it as it cannot be repaired. But check to see if both reels give problems. Once you get the knack SS is actually easier than plastic.

It would also be helpful if you can find a video online or have someone actually show you how it's done. Sometimes descriptions sound more complicated than they are actually.

Thomas Bertilsson · Feb 28, 2017

Hewes reels are amazing, both for 135 and 120 format. They really do kind of load themselves; I don't have any problems with Foma 120 film either - they all just slide on beautifully.

They really are much better, and you get what you pay for. I used to use plastic reels and had problems in the beginning of using stainless reels. I took out my calipers and measured the distance between the two wheels on the reel and it was significantly off, which explained why the film wouldn't go on easily. Out of 20 or so used 120 reels I found two good ones, which I use in addition to my Hewes reels. I have a feeling a lot of them get dropped and bent.

Wallendo · Feb 28, 2017

I originally started with "no-name" SS reels and had difficulty loading them, even in the light with my eyes open. I switched to Hewes reels and now rarely have trouble.

One problem is that loading stainless steel reels is like learning to ride a bicycle. No amount of didactic instruction can teach you how to do it properly. The amount of bend in the film and the amount of resistance to apply is something that can only be learned by experience. Yes, Hewes reels practically load themselves ... in the hands of experienced users.

I have never had any success pushing the film onto the reel.

jeffreyg · Feb 28, 2017

I have been using Kindermann SS reels for 120 and 35mm for very many years without problems. I don't know if you do this but I cut the leading edge corners on an angle, slightly cup the film and engage it under the clip. The reel has been set with the open end to my left (I'm right-handed) and with the spirals perpendicular to the clean flat counter-top. While keeping the film slightly cupped with my right hand and using my left hand as a guide, I push the film forward and let it wind itself on to the reel.
Try it with your practice rolls with the lights on and after it works, try with your eyes closed.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

Fraunhofer · Feb 28, 2017

Hewes reels are great both in 135 and 120

Arvee · Feb 28, 2017

I've used them all: Honeywell Nikors without a clip, Taiwanese reels, Kindermanns, Hewes and I've had no problems with any of them. The secret, as mentioned above, is to taper the end of the film feeding into the reel. This helps to center the film and start it properly. Piece of cake once it is started properly.

If not perfectly centered before you make the first wrap, it is guaranteed to kink on you.

silveror0 · Feb 28, 2017

guangong said:
In times past a kind of automatic loader was available for steel reels. Two arms slipped externally on to the reel, a chute like tongue dropped into the reel, film inserted into chute and fasted to reel center, rotate reel and, presto, reel loaded with no problems. This is only available for 35mm. For 120, curved plate is held in the palm and film wound onto reel. Again, perfect every time. Sadly, I don't believe these gadgets are available anymore.

When I first started photography in the '60s I used a plastic Leitz Rondinax tank for 35mm; never had a problem (except it could only develop one film at a time). Then I switched to Nikor reels and had to use one of these film loaders to load the reels successfully. Then I progressed to 120 Nikor reels and used the Nikor loader available for that format, again no problems. Eventually, progressing to sheet film only, I sold all that Nikor stuff. Then my grandson's wife returned from a trip to visit family in Bulgaria and gifted me a 1929 Voigtlander Bessa (in excellent condition with all shutter speeds accurate - amazing!) that takes 120 film, and I felt obligated to at least generate some negatives with it. So I bought another Nikor 120 reel and luckily found a Nikor 120 loader on *bay. They are difficult to find now, however.

rpavich · Feb 28, 2017

bvy said:
Plus one for Hewes for 35mm. They practically load themselves. For 120, I'm using whatever cheap reels came with the tank I bought. Starting them is the hardest part.

+2 for Hewes.
They really do load themselves.
Worth every freaking penny.

We spend so much money on other crap but when it comes to spending $25.00 on a reel that will change our developing life we cringe for some reason.

Trust me.
Hewes and never ever think about this again.

MattKing · Feb 28, 2017

I really like using steel reels for 35mm, but cannot use the clips on my 120 Hewes reels.
So I end up using plastic reels (AP clones in Paterson tanks) for most of my developing.
The 35mm steel reels I like best have no clips - just a "C" shaped opening that the film end goes into.

Trouble With Stainless Steel Reels and My Solution

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