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Trimming film edges before loading them into the reel

Slixtiesix

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I usually trim the edges of my 120 films before loading them into my Jobo 1520 tank. Over the time I tried various ways to do so because these plastic reels can be really finicky and it occasionally happens that the film gets stuck. I did cut the edges straight for a long time since that´s what I thought would work best. Recently I experimented with curved cuts using a nail scissor and to my surprise that last cut depicted below worked perfectly. How do you trim your film edges?
 

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I don't. I never have any problems loading my stainless spirals.
 

Yes, I clip the edges at about 45 degreesjust slightly to eliminate the sharp corner on which the film could get caught sometimes, but having film and spool perfectly dry is a higher priority and getting nervous about it does not help.if it doesn't work right away,I try to calm down, pull the film out and start over;wrinkled film doesn't work at all.
 
Keep in mind that there are different designs of reels. Up to the point that even similar reels of the same manufacturer have different designs (eg. Jobo clear vs. white ones).
 
55

I've been loading film reels for 55 years and never have much of a problem. Of curse I use good quality stainless steel reels.
 
+1 for Ralph and snapguy's techniques but only 44 years for me and my original Kinderman reels and ss tanks although the lids have been replaced a few times when the light baffles would no longer stay put.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
 
I love the smug responses from the usual suspects... That really helps the OP load his JOBO reels. Well done.

OP, I use JOBO reels as well and they do catch all the time. I am too lazy to clip the edges which is the smart thing to do to avoid it. I can usually find the catch with a finger or just jiggle the reel a bit. Most of the time it catches at the thin cutout part of the reel and you can feel the film offset there and pinch it. To load the film, I don't use the wind method but the push method. I simply push the film on the reels. You need to keep the reels clean to do that but it is incredibly fast. Once the film is started, I offset the sides so the spines don't line up. It helps a lot. With 120, once I get the film on the reel I hold the film then spin the reel to get the first roll all the way to the core so I can load a second roll on the reel. This is all easier done than described. I have been loading them so long that it is all automatic and I don't even think about it anymore.

Hope that helps you.
 
Why does everyone have to chime in on the fact they use stainless reels. Quite clearly, the OP
is offering a solution for the Jobo plastic reels. Jeez, it's almost as bad as people saying they only
eat organic, and talking about the virtues of their "pure" lifestyle.

Are the SS users better photographers or more talented?

I have Jobo reels, and experience the same issues OP. I'll give it a whirl.
 
Never used Jobo reels before. Are they the same design as Paterson? Like Ralph, I always give a little 45 degree snip and never had any problems loading Paterson reels after doing so.
 
I do the same with my Jobo reels and tank, however I've couple of steel reels that I don't use them (simply because I prefer the Jobo) but I practiced loading film on them and I found out that I don't need to trim the film with the steel reels.
 
Xia_Ke said:
Never used Jobo reels before. Are they the same design as Paterson? Like Ralph, I always give a little 45 degree snip and never had any problems loading Paterson reels after doing so.
Click to expand...

Basically the same design, a ratcheting film feed system...the Patterson reels won't fit the Jobo tanks though.
 
CropDusterMan said:
Basically the same design, a ratcheting film feed system...the Patterson reels won't fit the Jobo tanks though.
Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying. You mentioned that Patersons won't fit in a Jobo. Will Jobos fit in a Paterson tank? Need to pick up some more reels soon and weighing my options.
 
I am almost completely sure that the Patterson reels are larger than the Jobo's (we're talking 35/120 reels), and therefor,
will not fit in a Jobo tank. The Pattersons are far more common than the Jobo's, and therefor much cheaper. Both the
Jobo and Pattersons load almost the same...there are tons of Pattersons available on Craigslist too. The center core may also be different which would lead to issues.
 
Clipping the corners have made loading up on plastic reels super easy. I actually make a point of when I rewind the film I leave a tail hanging out so I can do the trim in the light then into the bag.
 

Thanks again!
 
I use Jobo reels and I give a small clip to the corners about 45 degrees . I prefer the Jobos to the Pattersons because they don't have the stainless steel ball .... which I've found to be unnecessary.

I always heat the reel a bit with a hair dryer immediately before loading. It makes sure the reel is absolutely dry and it seems to make the film slide in the reel more easily ............ more slippery some how .........
 
If you get into trouble loading the reels, just turn on the lights. After you've fixed the problem, turn the lights back off. This has always worked for me.
 
If you're thinking of trying Patterson reels in a Jobo tank (I have no idea) consider the Samigon or Omega reels - they have much larger "ears" which make MF a lot simpler to load. They're cheap too, $10-$14 average.
 

I switched all my 120 processing to Jobo reels in 2001. I found that trimming the corners makes the film more likely to come out of the groove. In the last 3 or 4 years I have been turning the film around and loading the end with a perfect 90 cut on to the reel. I have always cut the tape-to-paper end, rather than peeling the tape. I can't get the cut exactly 90 degrees and thought that was making it hold-up in the reel.

The other thing I have noticed recently is that I can push a 120 roll of TMAX (with its thick base) all the way to the center with no twisting sometimes. I always load two films to a reel and use the red tab.
 
Let the guys who load stainless reels brag a little, after all it's a lost art and not everyone can do it, I can't. To the OP, thanks for the tip I never thought about that, I'm going to give it a try. bob
 
M Carter said:
If you're thinking of trying Patterson reels in a Jobo tank (I have no idea) consider the Samigon or Omega reels - they have much larger "ears" which make MF a lot simpler to load. They're cheap too, $10-$14 average.
Click to expand...

You cannot use Paterson reels in Jobo tanks, nor can you use Jobo reels in Paterson tanks - the core diameters and outside diameters are different.

But otherwise I agree with the recommendation for the off-brand reels (also labeled as AP and Arista) with the wider flanges. They really help when loading 120.

I don't trim the corners of my film before loading. With 35mm, I prefer to leave the leader outside the cassette and start the loading in the light. With 120, I pull the first part of the film past the ball bearings.

If you leave the 35mm out, be sure to tear it or otherwise mark it to prevent inadvertent re-use of the film.

I employ the nail scissors later - when it comes time to put film into the negative storage sheets.
 
Sixtiesix: Which Jobo reels are you using, 1501 or 2502.

edit: I should have read your OP more carefully, never mind
 
I have to try this, but normally I just cut a 45 degree angle and it works fine on Paterson reels.
 

You can't tell others to behave if you don't lead by example.
First you complain how much it hurts to be thrown rocks at, and then go ahead and throw rocks yourself.
WTH does organic food have to do with loading film reels?

Plastic reels can be problematic, and I like the suggestion of clipping the corners. It helped me a lot when I used Paterson style reels.
 
I clipped the edges for years w/ 120. It works OK, but it makes it hard for my fingers to find out where the film edge actually is when starting to load it on the reel when it's all inside the change bag. Now I bend the film back against the curl the first few inches or so, and it works better. I found that it wasn't necessarily the edges that were the problem, it was the curl (especially w/ films like Shanghai GP3 that are really curly).
 
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