Tri-x & Rodinal how should I soup it?

Sean

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I am thinking 1:100 or should I try semi stand? If the consensus is semi-stand does anyone have the dilution/times/agitation for tri-x / rodinal? The shots are mostly portraits of my daughter. Thanks!
 

John Bragg

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Hi Sean,
I have just started using Rodinal again after some considerable time using other developers and the resulting negatives have been some of the most rewarding Tri-X I have produced yet. I wanted the best aspects of Rodinal to shine through, crisp grain with no clumping, amazing tonality and just the unique feel that only Rodinal seems to give.
I decided to go for 1:50 dilution as a starting point, with my usual personal speed for Tri-X of 200ASA. My dev time is 9 mins @ 20c, with agitation for first 30 secs continuous, then only 2 inversions at the start of each subsequent minute. My results print easily on grade 2 1/2 with my Kaiser enlarger and variable contrast head. (A longer time in the soup would be advisable for diffuser printing, say 11 or 12 mins). The key aspect of getting the best out of Rodinal seems to be agitating less than most folks deem nescessary.....
Best of luck, John.
 

df cardwell

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Hi Sean

My basic Rodinal & Tri-X process is either:

1+50 for 17', with agitation every minute, or 1+50 for 25' with agitation every 5th minute. ( agitate for the first 15 seconds to start either )

There is a visible, but subtle, difference in tonality in a normally scaled subject.

17' is pretty much 'normal', 25' gives fuller and softer shadows.

In a LONG scaled subject there is a much greater difference. 17' extends a straight line, while 25' ( with reduced agitation ) has a gradually increasing shoulder that brings the brightest scenes into normal printing range.

Below is a simple set of curves:

I pretty much use 25' for everything because MG filters let me dial in as much shadow contrast as I want.

1+50 vs 1+100 ?

When the agitation is reduced, and densities equalized, there is no difference in between the two dilutions. The curve shape is the same, the fine and regular grain is the same. 1+100 just takes longer.



Good luck !
 
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df cardwell

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Nice catch Alan, thanks.

Agitate either method for the first 15 second.

25 minutes, with agitation 5 seconds every 5th minute
 
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Sean

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I've printed the negs using df cardwell's info and they came out good.

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(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Thanks df!
 

AlanC

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DF,

Thanks from me as well. I also followed your advice for rodinal and developed a roll of Foma 400 taken in sunny conditions. I gave it 25 minutes with two inversions every 5 minutes. Just printed a couple of frames and they went onto grade 2.5 with no trouble at all.
Years ago I used rodinal a lot with the old Agfapan 100, that pre-dated APS 100. I always used it 1 to 25 and agitated every half minute. And I always seemed to have printing problems. These latest negatives were certainly much easier to print.

Thanks for your good advice.
Alan Clark
 

df cardwell

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That's great ! Now, keep us posted with the refinements you come up with... and some pictures !

don
 

Mike Kennedy

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Hope you can handle another compliment df.
I just souped 2 rolls of Tri-X (per your suggestion of 25 minutes) and the negs. look great!

Thanks Much,
Mike
 

photobum

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DF, or anyone. I would like to go further afield with this question. I always liked Trx-X and Rodinal with sheet film. When I go to 8x10 I run into the dreaded surge problem and end up with nice 7x9's. Any answers here? This is for use with big tanks and the Kodak A4 hangers. I tend to chew up film that's tray developed.
 

Markok765

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What i use for great results: 1:200 2.5 hours. shake at start and then halfway thorugh development. nice grain high sharpness, even negs shadowss\highlights are same density
 
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