tri x reel trouble

eunified61 · Mar 8, 2015

Need to develop important room of tri x can't afford to damage it
Had trouble with before looking for a hassle free method

heespharm · Mar 8, 2015

What format?

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eunified61 · Mar 8, 2015

Sirius Glass · Mar 8, 2015

Use Hewes reels

Gerald C Koch · Mar 8, 2015

What brand tank and reel. In fact add any other information that will be useful..

eunified61 · Mar 8, 2015

Patterson universal tank with plastic reels

heespharm · Mar 8, 2015

Practice with a separate roll of another film with the Patterson reels.. The secret is to make sure both sides of the reels are compressed against each other... Any amount of slop in the reel can lead to wrinkling

BUT if this roll is so important, I would pay the money to ship it out and get processed by professionals

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whlogan · Mar 8, 2015

Best idea there.... get the pro's to do it.....

Logan

snapguy · Mar 8, 2015

dry

The reel has to be perfectly dry and free of gunk. I agree -- let a local pro darkroom dude develop it for you. I have done my own darkroom work since the 1960s. I love stainless steel reels but have never felt quite comfortable with plastic reels. They are not for everyone, IMO. Good luck.

Gerald C Koch · Mar 8, 2015

Judging from another couple of threads, letting film be developed professionally is no guarantee that it will be done properly. Check with others for their recommendations.

BTW, the only roll of film I ever ruined was using a plastic reel. Never any problem with SS reels. But any reel, SS or plastic require that you practice.

Dr Croubie · Mar 8, 2015

Best advice I ever heard about plastic reels, especially in 120, is to run a pencil around the spirals. a) makes sure they're dry, b) and free of gunk, c) the graphite helps them glide on apparently, and doesn't affect development in any way.

Also, try cutting a 1mm triangle off the corners that go in first. Practice a bit in the light so you don't cut your fingertips in the dark.

cliveh · Mar 8, 2015

As already mentioned, bone dry reels are essential and graphite pencil traced in the spiral is a good idea. But if you still have difficulty, try loading from the other end of the reel.

Sirius Glass · Mar 8, 2015

whlogan said:
Best idea there.... get the pro's to do it.....

Logan

Not a good idea.

As noted before make sure the reels are clean and dry. Use a graphite pencil on plastic reals.

Adam W · Mar 8, 2015

Paterson reels are okay with 35mm film, but are difficult to use with 120. I find that reels with larger film guides are MUCH easier to load, like these:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/122989-REG/Samigon_ESA325_Multi_Format_Autofeed_Reel.html

These do seem to have a very slightly larger inner diameter than the Paterson reels, so I use a rubber band on the central post after I put the reel on it to prevent it from riding up the post during inversions and to ensure that the reel stays submerged in the chemicals.

That, and spend 15 minutes practicing with a sacrifice roll of film. First in the light, and then in the dark.

removed account4 · Mar 8, 2015

eunified61 said:
Need to develop important room of tri x can't afford to damage it
Had trouble with before looking for a hassle free method

hi op, where are you from,
if you are anywhere near me I will happily load your film on a reel.
it migh be a metal one though, but I would be happy to lend it to you until
post your process.

I never got used to plastic ..
good luck !
John

pbromaghin · Mar 9, 2015

I have found that 120 works better with stainless. I still like 35mm with plastic.

zehner21 · Mar 9, 2015

If you can't afford to lose it, why don't you invest onto an Agfa Rondinax?

eunified61 · Mar 9, 2015

I think I'll send this one out

baachitraka · Mar 9, 2015

Its a nightmare for me too with Patterson in 120. I thinking to go stainless steel tank and reels.

Colin DeWolfe · Mar 9, 2015

I use a Jobo tank and reels (uses nice even 1/2 L and 1L quantities of solution). Trim the corners, make sure they're dry, and if a jobo reel, make sure the red tab is removed unless loading multiiple rolls of 120, in which case it is necessary to keep the reels from overlapping. With the jobos, I don't have to "walk" the film on, I can just push it in.

The pencil idea above is interesting.

bdial · Mar 9, 2015

Loading from the taped end helps (leave the tape on). It makes the end a little stiffer and helps the film stay in the center clip if it's a stainless reel.

Other than that, practice makes perfect.

Roger Cole · Mar 9, 2015

Voice of dissent here - I never was able to load 35mm stainless reels easily and never able to manage 120 at all but have no problems with my Jobo plastic reels. This seems a very individual thing. I agree about plastic needing to be dry. Also never put plastic reels into rinse aid like Photoflo or color stabilizer. Both will gradually make them sticky and increasingly hard to load.

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heespharm · Mar 9, 2015

I have no problem with either... But I do like the Patterson tank better..: I just wish they made a metal one to help the temp in a water bath

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tri x reel trouble

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