tri X pan 125 asa

maarten m · Apr 17, 2011

so i exposed an expired (late 70's) kodak tri-X pan 125asa at 400asa.
i'm about to develop with rodinal 1:50 @ 20°C.
should i treat it like 400asa? (like say 15min)

regards,
mm

Mike Pieper · Apr 17, 2011

I'm not sure why no one responded to this. I've never used rodinal, so someone who has used it should probably comment on your developing times. I'm just confused when you say that you had some tri-x from the late 70s that was 125 speed. I first started shooting tri-x back in jr. high in the early 70s and it was always 400. I think a few decades earlier it was maybe rated at 200(?), but it's Plus-X that was/is 125. Anyway, I think developing times for older tri-x might be a little longer than it is now. I suppose you should try to find the old developing time somewhere and then increase development a little more than that, since it's old film. I'm no expert, however.

frobozz · Apr 18, 2011

If I understand the OP correctly, he took old film and exposed it at a lower ASA than its original rated speed (i.e. essentially overexposed it by nearly two stops) and then wants to know how to develop it properly. In this case you'd want to "pull process" it by nearly two stops, i.e. underdevelop to balance out the overexposure. (The idea being to get your exposure level up higher than the inevitable base fog that film that old is going to have.)

So no, you should not treat it like 400 ASA when developing, it needs less development than normal.

The massive dev chart says for Rodinal 1+50, modern Tri-X rated at ASA 400 gets 13 minutes, so you definitely want to develop for less time than that. They do list modern Tri-X rated at 100 ASA for Rodinal 1+50, with a development time of 7:30. I'd start somewhere around there. It's a bit of a guessing game with old film, and Tri-X has pretty good exposure latitude anyway, so if you get anywhere close you should certainly get printable negatives.

Duncan

Rick A · Apr 18, 2011

That, or he actually has PlusX and rated it at 400. My memory doesn't recall Tri-X ever being 125asa. If thats the case, then the OP is on the right track. Either way, I wouldn't choose Rodinal for the developer. I might look to Ethol UFG or Acufine for pushing an old film. The UFG is especially good for push process with shorter developing times and fine grain.

maarten m · Apr 18, 2011

Plus-X pan 125 asa at 400 asa

sorry, my mistake! the film is Plus-X Pan (125asa) which i exposed at 400asa (2 stops under).
so rick, i'ld use rodinal because it's the soup i have.

i found this table: http://web.tiscalinet.it/visualphoto/films/kodak-plusx_125.html
only T-max would develop sufficient for 400 asa rated: 9min at 20°C instead of 5:30.

i don't care about grain, and i don't think to buy T-max for just 1 film.
so, any hints on rodinal?

other film i have:
- Agfachrome 50L (135) *
- Agfa Gevaert CT18 (135) *
(i guess no more developments for these?)
- kodak vericolor II type S (135) > C-41
- kodacolor II (135) > C-41
- Kodak Vericolor 160 (120) > C-41
- kodak ektachrome E100S (120) > E-6
- kodak extachrome X (120) > E-6?
- Fujichrome provia 100F (120) > E-6?

mm

frobozz · Apr 18, 2011

Here is an interesting chart as a starting point:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?doc=pushproc

Duncan

bwrules · Apr 18, 2011

Old films lose speed, I wouldn't be surprised if this old px has a speed near 25 and lots of base fog.

Richard S. (rich815) · Apr 18, 2011

bwrules said:
Old films lose speed, I wouldn't be surprised if this old px has a speed near 25 and lots of base fog.

I agree. I'm afraid you'll have serious fog and possibly pure grey negs. Should have shot it at 64 or 50.

I just shot a roll of Ilford HP3 400 (yes HP5's predecessor) yesterday. It's a bulk loaded roll from July 1963. Shot it at 50. Developed it in HC-110 dilution H for 7.25 min at 22C. Got some very printable negs (better than the 1967 Super XX I shot a few months ago anyway). Might shoot the next roll at 25 though...

maarten m · Apr 19, 2011

i guess just not worth the bother?
ah well, nothing really of value on it anyway.

mm

Rick A · Apr 19, 2011

Why dont you try 1+50 for 30 mins@ 20c in Rodinal, reduced agitation. Try agitating first minute, then 30 sec every 5 minutes. You have already shot the film, dont toss it in the dust bin.

maarten m · Apr 19, 2011

thanks rick, i'll give it a try.

mm

maarten m · Apr 24, 2011

the results:

KODAK PLUS-X 135 film (exp. 70's) exposed at 400asa (about 2 stops under).
dev: rodinal 1+50, 30min@20°C: 1 min inversions, then 10 inv. every 5 min.
fix: ilford rapidfix 1+9, 15min.

KODAK TRI-X (both 120 and 135 film, exp. 70's)
dev: rodinal 1+50, 13min@20°C: 10 inv. every started min.
fix: ilford rapidfix 1+4, 8 min.

all films have serious basefog, maybe i could try extra fixingtime.
but all films are pretty well developed!
they're hanging to dry now, but i'll post some results as soon as i can!

regards,
mm

maarten m · Apr 27, 2011

f-ing wiper! scratched all my negatives ...
at first glance, the pushed Plus-X @ 400 has (far) less grain then the Tri-X!
what a surprise!

mm

Rick A · Apr 27, 2011

Throw that f'ing POS wiper in the trash and do not replace it. Never wipe film with anything. Buy a bottle of Edwal LFN, and mix according to instructions. Hang your film after soaking in LFN solution and walk away for a couple of hours.

maarten m · Apr 28, 2011

never scratched one before, but there has to be a first for everything i guess ...
i use amaloco H-10 wetting agent, shouldn't i wipe the negs? just hang them to dry?

mm

tkamiya · Apr 28, 2011

I used to soak in Photo-Flo and finger squeezee. These days, I just soak and hang. No finger squeezee or anything. I have to say the results are actually better. Seems wet patches of spots left as a result of my trying to get them off actually resulted in localized drying of photo-flow chemicals on the surface, rather than sheeting off the film.

Rick A · Apr 28, 2011

Use whatever wetting agent you desire, just never wipe the negatives with anything.

maarten m · Apr 28, 2011

thanks for the hints!
i'll keep in mind for the future.

mm

Rick A · Apr 29, 2011

One other thing you can do is, before unspooling the film to dry, shake the excess liquid from the film while still in the reel. This will help eliminate water and speed drying without spots or streaks.

maarten m · Apr 29, 2011

another fine hint! thanks!

mm

MattKing · Apr 29, 2011

Rick A said:
One other thing you can do is, before unspooling the film to dry, shake the excess liquid from the film while still in the reel. This will help eliminate water and speed drying without spots or streaks.

A "salad spinner" works great for this. This one will work well, but the cheaper ones are fine too:

http://www.creativecookware.com/salad_spinners.htm

tri X pan 125 asa

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