Xtol is not an improvement over D-76.If you are trying to improve upon the performance of D76 1:1 you should just use XTol. If you are trying to improve upon the performance of XTol 1:1 you should use XTol replenished. If you are still not satisfied then it's time for a larger format or TMax 400.
May depend on the film but I prefer it at 1+1It doesn't matter in LF... It barely matters in MF... But for 35mm photography, grain and developer dilution can be paramount...
I had never done it, but for TX I see I prefer stock: to my surprise, grain is not dissolved ! It's sharp but very small !
Why is more common 1+1? Maybe cost?
Stock is truly great for 320 and 640.
By the way, images are sharp as with 1+1, and resolving of fine detail is superb even at 640.
The same for TMY (same development times using stock...), but with some more shadow detail and resolving power.
I guess the situation was a little different with films available three or four generations ago.
Hello Ralph, great to see you here...May depend on the film but I prefer it at 1+1
Hi Kino,Not everyone strives for the same effect. There is no one proper way to use a developer; it depends on what you want and what you like in your finished image.
Hi Kino,
I don't know if you imagined I didn't know not everyone strives for the same effect, or if you thought I consider there's only one way to use a developer: just in case, I know about all that, and I'm fine with all that.
I don't know either if you noticed people have repeated for three generations "Tri-X is better in D-76 1+1 because if we use stock, grain is dissolved and the image is less sharp": well, maybe materials today are others, and the grain in current Tri-X is very small: it's, for sure, not the grain that made our grandfathers say 1+1 is better... Today the situation is slightly different or totally different: everyone can choose... And some other people will say "today the situation is identical."
Just in case again: I'm fine with people extending that confusion for some more generations...
I just share reality here for those interested in the future: no interest in anyone sharing my opinion this year or the next one...
Thanks for sharing your ideas in this thread.
no one has a patent on reality
I rarely use 35mm film; mainly 120 and sometimes 4x5; so grain is not really an issue;For me it's all about tonality.Hello Ralph, great to see you here...
Do you mean for 35mm grainier films ?
Have you seen grain is not dissolved with stock solution, and acutance is high?
I’m giving myself a pat on the back for that one. Best research I’ve ever done.
I rarely use 35mm film; mainly 120 and sometimes 4x5; so grain is not really an issue;For me it's all about tonality.
1:1 definitely saves money.1:1 is used to save money.
I prefer stock D76, found my negs had more sparkle.
I loved that too.I’m giving myself a pat on the back for that one. Best research I’ve ever done.
I had the same experience. Stock Xtol is insane, and HP5+ simply sings in it. D76/ID-11 is only slightly worse though, notably in the grain structure department.
Tonality is not a thing. It's a meaningless made-up term of subjective value without technical weight behind it. It lives next to 3d pop and leica glow. Xtol is better than D76 because it delivers tighter grain and it's easier to "bend" your film's characteristic curve with it - the highlights are better protected. Given that you just now learned such a basic fact that diluting D76 is not a good idea, perhaps you should reserve your judgement on other developers until you discover what they're capable of?
I loved that too.
One time I tried to get maximum graininess by developing fresh Tri-X in Dektol.
It sort of worked but it also sort of didn't. I never really got the "golfball grain" I was looking for.
The main reason the grain was big was because I used half frame.
Now I am intrigued.
I believe there is a difference in grain whether film is developed in D-76 stock or D-76 1:1 but I think it's subtle.
A real artist will notice the difference in their own negatives, will want it a certain way and develop their film that way to get it.
I'm not that sensitive as an artist. But I am curious about how much difference there is between D-76 stock and D-76 1:1, assuming similar subjects and film developed to the same contrast index.
One time I tried to get maximum graininess by developing fresh Tri-X in Dektol.
It sort of worked but it also sort of didn't. I never really got the "golfball grain" I was looking for.
I believe there is a difference in grain whether film is developed in D-76 stock or D-76 1:1 but I think it's subtle.
One time I tried to get maximum graininess by developing fresh Tri-X in Dektol.
It sort of worked but it also sort of didn't. I never really got the "golfball grain" I was looking for.
Maybe the wizards at @ADOX Fotoimpex should seriously consider releasing a grain-enhancing developer that gives the golf-ball grain that many users seem to want from Tri-x.
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