Tri-X 400 120 format.

I've just finished shooting my one and only roll of Tri-X 400 (rated at 250)using a newly acquired Yashica D.
I have 3 different developers on hand to choose from. Rodinal,HC-110 and D-76. Donald Qualls gave me some information that I can't find. How does these combos sound: D-76 at 1:1 for 9 mins. OR Rodinal 1:100 for 15 mins.
I would have experimented but this is a one shot thing until I can scrape together some $$ for an out of province film order.

Thanks in Advance,
Mike

Tri-X+D76 1:1 is a classic, go for it. 9 minutes sounds right if you`re developing in a regular tank and agitating 10 seconds per minute.

Hey Mike, nice to see you on the TLR bandwagon! With Tri-X in 120, I've used only XTOL 1+1 for 8 mins or so. Kodak's time are usually too long by about 20%, and bear in mind that they screwed up completely the HC-110 times.

I would stick to D-76 1+1 for 9 mins as it's a safe combination, and a normal dev time. The thing with Rodinal 1+100 is that you're reducing contrast by boosting the shadows, and Tri-X isn't a very contrasty film from the start (like Efke, or Delta 100, say). Plus, if your Yashica is of the Yashikor denomination, then you will have very flat negatives.

I'm ashamed to admit that some of my 35mm negs taken with a 50mm f1.4 SMC Takumar have better contrast than my 120 negs taken with a D... But I like the Yashica, and it gave me awesome results with APX 100 or Efke 25, so I keep using it.

Thanks Amund, thanks Michel

Looks like D-76.

You're right Michel. My D does have the lower quality lenses. Are you suggesting that I should shoot with slower film for better results?

Mike

Mike Kennedy said:

Looks like D-76.

You're right Michel. My D does have the lower quality lenses. Are you suggesting that I should shoot with slower film for better results?

Mike

Click to expand...

Just shoot at f8 or smaller - you won't be able to tell the difference. Or you could get an old Yashicamat for under $100.

Hope this helps,

Lachlan

D76 can either be considered a solvent developer straight or slightly sharper at 1:1, or a non-solvent developer at 1:3. Graininess increases on dilution. If this was a test roll, I might cut it and develop at different dilutions just for knowledge. Generally in 400 speed films in MF I use a 1:2 dilution of Xtol. Having checked over previous rolls with a loupe I find Xtol better then D76 at dilution.

As Lachlan said, stopping down improves the lens, but see first how you like the results contrast-wise with Tri-X. I think I will use mine with a yellow filter to give it some oomph (just use a Bay I to 49mm adapter, you can find some for cheap on e*ay)

Depending on if you think you overexposed your film a bit of shot in bright contrasty light, don't be afraid to cut 30 sec off that 9 minute time.

I usually use times between 7:30 to 8:30 (depending on what was shot) for Tri-X rated around 320. Normal to light agitation, I may add. Used to do some for 7 minutes at 200 ASA as well.

And, if this is going in a condenser enlarger is another consideration.

But the 9 minutes should be more than enough if you were shooting in decent daylight.