Tri-X 320 -- suitable use?

Trask · Jan 22, 2012

I've picked up a pro-pack of 5 rolls of 120 Tri-X 320 recently. I've never used this film before and, given that it's no longer made, I'm reluctant to shoot several rolls to try to determine what kind of lighting and subjects this film is best suited for. I understand it's excellent for people photography, and that it separates tones well in Zones 7, 8, etc.

So how do you suggest I use this film, and what developer(s) should I consider?

I appreciate any and all advice.

cjbecker · Jan 22, 2012

I shoot it in 4x5 and its my favorite film ever. I shoot it at 200 and develop in hc-110 b (1 to 31) for 6:30.

I have only used it for portraits but that is mostly what I do.

wildbill · Jan 22, 2012

how many different answers do you think you're going to get here?
Shoot whatever you normally shoot and process it in what you normally use for a 200/400 speed film. tmax, pyro, acufine, d-76, rodinal.

markbarendt · Jan 22, 2012

Just follow Kodak's directions.

tomalophicon · Jan 22, 2012

I rate it at E.I 32 and soup it in undiluted ID-11 for 40 minutes agitating every 1 second.

markbarendt · Jan 22, 2012

tomalophicon said:
I rate it at E.I 32 and soup it in undiluted ID-11 for 40 minutes agitating every 1 second.

:munch:

Rick A · Jan 23, 2012

WOW, those negs must be lead bricks at EI 32.

Wayne · Jan 23, 2012

Why all the sarcastic, unhelpful replies to an honest question?

BrianShaw · Jan 23, 2012

Australian humour is hard to understand sometimes!

SWphoto · Jan 23, 2012

From what I recall reading, it might be good for handling high contrast scenes. I also think one of the moderators, SuzanneR, used to use it- you might try sending her a PM.

Thomas Bertilsson · Jan 23, 2012

I used a few pro packs of Tri-X 320, and I didn't see too much that made it particularly distinctive compared to other films.

The suggestion to just shoot what you normally shoot with other films, and processing the first roll according to Kodak's instructions, is logical and a good one.
Adjust contrast in the resulting negs with development time to suit how you print.

Have fun!

Sal Santamaura · Jan 23, 2012

Michael R 1974 said:
...it has a slightly longer toe than other films and a more "classic" s-shaped curve...

The curve shape of 320TXP is not s-shaped. Instead, it continuously rises. It's been described as "all toe."

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f4017/f4017.pdf

I just filled a freezer with it in 5x7 and 8x10. This film lends "sparkle" to the whites that's just as valuable with landscapes for me as it is for others in studio situations.

Andrew Moxom · Jan 23, 2012

Its a wonderful film with great bright tones. You do have to be careful to make sure you expose and develop correctly though. Its a little less forgiving than some other films, and can blockup the highlights if you overdo it with the development. Get it right, and you will be amazed at the details in the highlights.

Brian C. Miller · Jan 23, 2012

Trask said:
I've never used this film before and, given that it's no longer made...

Whoa! From Kodak: "The world's best selling black-and-white film."

It's Plus-X that's been discontinued, although there's plenty to be purchased right now. When Kodak discontinues Tri-X, there shall be no more Kodak. (Kodak has discontinued packaging Tri-X in 8x10, but that can still be had in that size, too.)

This is a general-purpose film. Load it up, shoots lots, and enjoy. Yeah, the curves can vary with the developer that's used, but if Tri-X were as bad as some make it out to be, then it would have flopped a long time ago. Shoot it, use your favorite developer or send it to a lab, and enjoy the prints.

tomalophicon · Jan 23, 2012

Brian C. Miller said:
Whoa! From Kodak: "The world's best selling black-and-white film."

It's Plus-X that's been discontinued, although there's plenty to be purchased right now. When Kodak discontinues Tri-X, there shall be no more Kodak. (Kodak has discontinued packaging Tri-X in 8x10, but that can still be had in that size, too.)

This is a general-purpose film. Load it up, shoots lots, and enjoy. Yeah, the curves can vary with the developer that's used, but if Tri-X were as bad as some make it out to be, then it would have flopped a long time ago. Shoot it, use your favorite developer or send it to a lab, and enjoy the prints.

\

I'm sure Tri-X 400 is still going, but 320 has gone as far as I know in everything but sheet film.

Guillaume Zuili · Jan 23, 2012

D76 dil.1+1 Time 10.30 is safe start. Then you can play with as many combo you can imagine.
For years TXP320 was the only film sold in France in 120 and in Pack.
TX400 (120) when available was only sold in single and very few photog used it in comparaison.
Magazines, Kodak, agencies used to give loads of these TXP320 packs.
Good old time :-(
And it was used in any situation.
Studio, landscape, reportage... anything.
Fantastic film.

daleeman · Jan 23, 2012

I use tx320 in 4x5 and found it works very well with skin tones with studio flash and continuous lighting from compact florescent bulbs, daylight balanced. It seemed to work well with all tones of skins, even almost Geisha White colored skin.. I found it nice and easy to use in Diafine.

I stocked up the day Kodak went into bankruptcy, just to protect the flow of sheet film.

Never used in in 120 format,wish I had.

Lee

John Shriver · Jan 24, 2012

Older editions of Kodak Data Book F-5 Negative Making with Kodak Black-and-White Sheet Films has a good discussion of "The Portrait Negative". (Mine is from 1966.) This is about making shots with medium to low-key lighting, where you want good tone separation in the highlights. This is the sort of negative you should be "able to read a newspaper through". There used to be a bunch of films with "upswept" (no shoulder) HD curves, such as LS Pan, Royal Pan (not Royal-X), Tri-X sheet film, Plus-X sheet film, Portrait Panchromatic, Tri-X Ortho, and Super Speed Ortho Portrait. The last of these is 320TXP in sheet film.

markbarendt · Jan 25, 2012

Michael R 1974 said:
Incidentally, Tri-X 320 sheets also make excellent anti-Newton Ring spacers.

Really?

That's cool!

Trask · Jan 25, 2012

Thanks to everyone who took my question seriously and gave their honest answer. I'm not a new film user - I've been developing and printing since 1965, so been there done that except for using Tri-X 320. Given that it's no longer available in roll format, I was seeking some suggestions as how to maximize my use of 320 in terms of its best and/or unique attributes -- and many of you have given me exactly that. I appreciate it.

Helinophoto · Feb 7, 2012

I got "lucky" (or unlucky if you will) and got 8 120 rolls with a used Mamiya RZ67 II.

Absolutely love it, it can be used for just about everything you want, but as far as I can remember from when I did some research, I think the film was designed for studio use.
I got really "wow" when I used it in a studio context.
I like the fine, smooth grain that it has on 12*16" enlargements for portraits (developed in Rodinal 1:50) and it has a nice "bite" to it as well, and it has a tonal response which render red (like lipstick) very dark, at least with daylight studio strobes, which is what I like.

I found the film to be quite forgiving, because I deliberately overexposed half the roll, to get as much shadow detail as possible, the highlights in the skin were still no problem getting on the print, so it still had latitude for overexposure in that situation at least.

I'm no expert on this film by a long shot, but I really liked it. I have 5 more rolls to go and then I'm all out, that's why I said I was maybe unlucky. =)

Tri-X 320 -- suitable use?

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