Travelling with B&W

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abruzzi

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As a MF RF user, there aren't interchangeable backs so I never got to rely on that feature. If you just shoot B&W mainly I think it will be simple enough without changing film.

I tend to be hesitant about shooting 400 speed film in daylight, but that is mostly because where I live the sun is intense, and most days are completely cloudless. On a leaf shutter SLR 1/500 is my max, and that it doesn't really reach (I came across a magazine review of the Bronica SQ where they tested the shutter speeds on a brand new lens. It was pretty accurate up to 1/250, but 1/500 was only halfway between 250 and 500 on a brand new lens, so I don't usually use 1/500.) ISO400 means ƒ22 and 1/250 on sunny days, whereas TMAX100 could do ƒ11. But yes if I only do B&W the swappable backs become less critical, but I can still imagine I'd have all 3 B&W film types loaded and swap out between 100, 400, 3200 based on the context.

I could easily fit a 4th back for something color like Pro400H, but my thoughts (and kind of the gist of this thread..at least its initial purpose) are less about technical solutions but rather about simplifying my thought processes...it is my vacation afterall. I mentioned this is a previous post that the rule could be simple--indoors or heavy clouds: Tri-X; Outside: TMX100; In the sewers (or night time or other dark interiors) Delta3200.

On the positive side, lack of color film means I don't have to ask myself--"do I want this shot in color or black and white?" On the negative side (and my primary concern) not having color film means if the answer had been "shoot color" that is no longer an option.
 

Paul Howell

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I find that traveling with Tmax 400 with a + 1 push at same developer time as N, along with Tmax 100 provides speeds from 100 to 800. I do shoot with leaf shutters with top speed of 1/500 and 1/400 of a second and even in harsh Arizona sun can shoot 400 at 1/500th at F 16, but not much leeway. Maybe other option is to carry HP 5, PF4 and Pan F, so speeds from 50 to 400 are covered. HP5 will push to 800 with good resluts, or add Tmax or Delta 3200 and shoot at 1600 for range of 50 to 1600, or 5 stops.
 

GregY

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Although i usually travel with both 100 & 400 iso film, certainly in medium format I could travel with 400. The max daylight situations i overcome by carrying yellow and orange filters.
 
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abruzzi

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Although i usually travel with both 100 & 400 iso film, certainly in medium format I could travel with 400. The max daylight situations i overcome by carrying yellow and orange filters.

yeah, I should have thought of that. All the ETR lenses I'll be bringing will have a 62mm filter thread. Unfortuntely the only contrast filters I have are square. I have a 62mm adapter for the square filters, but the attachment is bulky, and switching the setup from lens to lens would be a pain. So I ordered a yellow #15 and an orange #21 from Amazon. We'll see if the get here before I leave.
 

GregY

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A, here's one from your neck of the woods. Lots of light. I had just packed up and put my 5x7 in the car & turned around to see this....& grabbed my Fuji GW680lll....Tri-X/Orange filter....
 

Prest_400

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Voting again for the filter. Maybe you are even able to get a second hand screw in in time.
Interestingly, even with leaf shutter cameras and a yellow filter I found the 1/500 limit not that bad even in sunny tropics. Just stopped down, and curiously enough I always find myself wanting an extra with medium format, as the envelope is a bit more limited compared to 35mm. Also, most of my travel has been during winter but 400 will be nice to have if you end up in alleyways and narrow streets.
I brought a 3 stop ND (mostly for digital and my friend) which was barely used, then a Polariser which takes off 1-2 stops. Of course, shooting 645 the difference between 100/400 film characteristics would be more visible than in 6x7+

I'm one that likes to be prepped, still with the mindfulness of not carrying too much but having what I will need. If possible bring a heap of color, on the worst case it's gonna get some Xrays but still well be usable. I have not encountered that many CT scanners in my europe trips yet, but seemingly handchecks are being more and more allowed. Most of my color is left over from my trip, now expired but still Ok and back in cold storage.
Store wise I know Vienna and Budapest have some good film places, and film is quite popular so capital cities have availability. Even with that, it might end up taking you some time or effort to go to some stores.
My friend ended up needing a tripod in HK, and ironically it wasn't that easy to quickly purchase and took us some time.

grabbed my Fuji GW680lll....Tri-X/Orange filter....
My beloved machine, now for "film economy" would like the 6x8 instead of 6x9.
 
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abruzzi

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Of course, shooting 645 the difference between 100/400 film characteristics would be more visible than in 6x7+

I could bring my Fuji GL690, but that thing is a beast and the lenses are huge. I have a scale focus Horseman Convertible with a bunch of 6x9 roll backs, but the convertible only has a 62mm lens, though I am working on creating a custom lensboard to mount a 100, and if that works, I'll design another for a 180. Like many here I grew up on 35mm and I've really internalized that 1.5:1 ratio. That makes 6x9 very comfortable, 5x7 is also close (1.4:1) but LF isn't really an option on trips like this. 6x9 is very limited with camera choice and even 6x7 entails a bulky camera and lens (If you want an SLR--which I do). I briefly considered bringing my GS-1 instead but when I pulled out the GS-1 plus 50mm, 100mm, 150mm, it was clearly much heavier than the ETRSi with 40mm, 75mm, 150mm.
 

Sergey Ko

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I traveled to Zambia & Botswana with Bessa+35mm & Canon IV+50mm+85mm+200mm. Color shot for everyday posting enough iPhone.
The film is not a question at all. In sunny countries is 50-100ISO, for cloudy winter trips is 200-400. For dark conditions you can hardly compete with modern phones or digitals, even with 800-3200 Ilford. This film is for some special creative purpose
Here is some pictures from this trip:



Hippo on another side of Zambezi river. Canon IV +Komura 200mm



Young lion in Zambia national park. Bessa L + Ultron 35mm.
 

Sergey Ko

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I traveled a lot with Fuji GA645zi. It is one of the best travel cameras! I used it for 20 years & but recently sold it to minimise the cameras choice
It was excellent for slide film (as all Fuji lenses):



Fuji GA645zi + Fuji Velvia 50. Thailand, KoTao.
 
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abruzzi

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I just returned from my trip. I did bring some Pro400, but I shot mostly TriX, and a little Tmax100 (plus a few rolls of Delta 3200 for the Vienna sewer tour.). I also brought the Fuj GA645Zi, and on different days used the Fuji or Bronica. My take aways:

* every now and again you see something where the color makes the shot. But overall I’d say 80% of the shots I took were B&W.

* schlepping the ETRSi (one of the smallest and lightest MF SLRs) definitely gets old. I wouldn’t do it except the ability to change backs.

* The fuji was actually pretty nice. If I had fully standardized on a single film, the lack of film back swapping wouldn’t be an issue.

* The Fuji had one major issue—I needed to make sure the film was very taught because if it wasn’t the finished roll would come out loosely spooled which probably ruined most if not all the photos on the roll. I need to be more careful next time around.

* I haven’t developed anything yet, but I expect that B&W will be ideal for shots of the thousands of stone statues around Europe.

I think next trip I will probably just do the Fuji and TriX.
 

Kodachromeguy

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I learned the same. After threading the paper leader into the empty spool on the right, I hold a finger on the full roll (on the left) as I advance the film and line up the arrows on the backing paper. The roll stays tight, at least on my GW690II.
 
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abruzzi

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I learned the same. After threading the paper leader into the empty spool on the right, I hold a finger on the full roll (on the left) as I advance the film and line up the arrows on the backing paper. The roll stays tight, at least on my GW690II.

It probably lost me some photos of Sighisoara, birthplace of Vlad Tepes (Vlad the Impaler), but I’ll learn for next time. I expected any looseness would go away when the take up spool pulled.
 

Prest_400

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Glad to hear. Concept wise I second that the Fuji is a really good idea for travel.
As of fat rolls, I only had a single one with my GW690 perhaps because I loaded quite quick once (almost under rain). IIRC it was about 1-2mm fat over the edges of the spool, there were of course light leaks in some frames but salvageable with cropping.
 
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abruzzi

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the (slightly) annoying thing if I now have 30 rolls to develop--all 6x4.5, but some are 15 shot rolls (ETRSi) and some are 16 shot rolls (Fuji.)
 

Prest_400

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the (slightly) annoying thing if I now have 30 rolls to develop--all 6x4.5, but some are 15 shot rolls (ETRSi) and some are 16 shot rolls (Fuji.)

I take much more enjoyment in printing than developing.
After my trip I had some 20 something rolls. Have Paterson tanks and reels in which it is possible to spool 2 rolls of 120 by taping them together as if it were 220. Might require some cursing. Aside of time savings it also optimises chemistry, as I was using XT3 (XTOL) at 1+1 and did not want to waste dev capacity. To boot I have a large tank available so I could do 8 at a time.
 

Kodachromeguy

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For years, a Rolleiflex TLR was my regular traveling companion. It is a compact but slight heavy rectangle. In its genuine leather case, it is well-protected, and I stored it in a backpack for 10s of cross-ocean trips. No issues at all, no damage. But recently, I have reverted to a 35mm Leica and Tri-X 400 film. Sure, there is not as much data on a 135 frame, but there is still plenty of photo material. Some recent examples:

Istanbul:

https://worldofdecay.blogspot.com/2025/06/1700s-cavanserai-or-han-eminonu.html

https://worldofdecay.blogspot.com/2025/05/eminonu-in-rain-istanbul-turkey-nov-2024.html
 

Sirius Glass

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When traveling by car whether one uses film or digital, it is good to make should that the cameras and lenses do not sit in the glove box or trunk in the heat, is the lubricants can flow or vaporize and move areas that they should not be in the lens. That could effect the aperture, shutter or coat the lenses.
 
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