TOPCON Unirex shutter recoil

Admittedly I have it (with 35 & 100 lenses), but have never shot a roll through it. I forgot how it felt when shutter is released. The question I have: is there anyone who actually used this camera for picture taking and did not have trouble hand holding shots at seemingly any speed? Without a blur that is? It seems to me that recoil on the shutter is beyond ridiculous and leaf shutter does not explain it, given how most other leaf shutter SLRs perform in this area specifically (Contaflex, Retina Reflex, Bessamatic etc).

Or, is there something wrong with my example as it recoils closer to an AK47 than a photographic tool. Have tried many hold styles and the thing just wants to launch on a space mission every time.

It's over 40 years since I had one and it was my first SLR, so my memory's a bit vague. However, I can't recall any issue with camera shake at speeds of above 1/60th second. Looking at photos from the period shows no signs either.

I have both the Unirex and the IC-1 (close, same lenses) and the shutters are as smooth as any of my large format leaf shutter, they have a kerplunk to them but no shake.

cowanw said:

I have both the Unirex and the IC-1 (close, same lenses) and the shutters are as smooth as any of my large format leaf shutter, they have a kerplunk to them but no shake.

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I wonder if mine has an odd issue. shutter works at all speeds without a hitch but shutter ? I actually think it is the "blinders" that thunder things up so much, so possibly they shake it up, but outside of time when exposure is happening?

Or possibly there is some sort of dampening that does not work on mine?

Martin Rickards said:

It's over 40 years since I had one and it was my first SLR, so my memory's a bit vague. However, I can't recall any issue with camera shake at speeds of above 1/60th second. Looking at photos from the period shows no signs either.

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Me, too. Same commentary, except my memory is not vague, I still have the camera. I used to routinely shoot at 1/8 or 1/15 during my high school photojournalism days.

Looking at mine it is clear that the behind mirror binders are slapping hard. So the renewed question is does this correspond to yours? Leaf shutter is never really an issue, and isn't here either. Since blinder slap happens before and especially AFTER a shot, one might hope it isn't blurring the shot, but residual vibrations just might. I can just feel it, but perhaps I have to take it out for a spin? It would help however to know whether anyone with one of these can confirm hard slap of the blinders.

I don't get why you repeatedly mention leaf shutters. Isn't the Topcon Unirex a reflex camera with focal plane curtain shutter?

I don't get why you repeatedly mention leaf shutters. Isn't the Topcon Unirex a reflex camera with focal plane curtain shutter?

You might have looked it up before posting:
http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Topcon_Unirex

Wow, interesting camera!

Marco Gilardetti said:

Wow, interesting camera!

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And if you want a good drink (shaken, not stirred) mine will do that too.

Witold said:

...
Or, is there something wrong with my example as it recoils closer to an AK47 than a photographic tool.

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Perhaps the mirror dampening foam has deteriorated.

I have a Voigtländer Bessamatic, which is similar to your camera in that it is a behind-the-lens leaf-shutter SLR and has the rear baffle (*). I doubt the baffle has enough mass to cause much vibration, but possibly the mirror does if it is not damped properly.


(*) For those who do not know, the rear baffle is needed because the shutter is open during SLR viewing. The shutter cycle (at least for the Bessamatic) is like this:

Initial state:
a: shutter cocked and blades fully open
b: baffle closed (down), protecting the film
c: mirror down
d: aperture fully open
e: viewing through the lens

1. Press shutter release.
2. Mirror rises
3. Shutter closes.
4. Aperture stops down.
5. Rear baffle rises.
6. Shutter opens and closes, exposing the film.

Post-exposure state:
a: shutter blades closed, protecting the film
b: baffle open (up)
c: mirror up
d: aperture stopped down
e: cannot view through lens

Winding the film then closes the baffle, lowers the mirror, and opens the shutter and aperture blades.

It's a complex cycle and access for repairs is more difficult - not only because the baffle and behind-the-lens shutter make access difficult as well.

If it really does have recoil similar to an AK-47, perhaps a strap will help: