Took my Fathers old Goldi out for a spin.

[sruddy]

My father told me when I was a teen that he had some cameras put away that I would be inheriting. He was holding his Rolleiflex T, and said this is a great camera. He also said he had a really nice 4 x 5 that he no longer had. Anyway, last year my Mom let me go into the attic and get all his stuff. Then a few months ago she sends me her best friends Dad's collection. I had no interest in anything except the Rolleflex T but eventually started looking at the rest. Now I find myself looking at old cameras to collect and use. The T has been restored, and I use it along with a 2.8E, but I'm now on a mission to run film thru all I can, and make a print or two to go along with the camera for display. I pulled out a Goldi first, as I discovered there is 127 film available.

The camera looked cute and in good shape so I purchase one roll of Rera Pan 400, it's supposed to be respooled Rollei RPX400, and one roll of their Chrome 100. I cleaned it very well including the lens elements. I was surprised how nice it turned out and was hoping for good results. Before my test roll I looked at something with a loupe from the film plain and it appeared to fucus ok. I used a Saymon Brown range finder to focus my shots.

It tested out very accurate however most of the shots look out of focus. I tried lots of different f stops angles and distances and the sharpest ones are at 4' range. There also seems to be some type of light leak but I couldn't find anything using a flashlight in the dark. I discovered the film is very sensitive as well. I put the film in with much care, but still got light bands on my first 4 shots due to it being light struck during loading. On several of the shots the focus is so spotty I think the film must not be held flat at all.

I would like to run the slide film through it before putting it back on the shelf so if anyone has any ideas for the leak and focus let me know. The camera was a lot of fun for me to use however carrying it around opened was awkward as there is no strap. It's nice to put it in your pocket when done though! Here a re a few examples of my better images.

Here is half the roll showing the leak and the band, maybe from loading error? Neg looks a bit thin too. I used pocket meter on my cell phone. Maybe when I shoot the slide film I'll try my Sekonic L478DR with the spot meter attachment.

My sharpest image. Taken at f11 and it's underexposed, but I actually like the darkness.

I shot this at f11 @29', and f16 at infinity. I used a fence as a tripod. I was expecting much better!!

Sharpness sucks but it has a painterly effect.

Shot at f4. This is one were it looks like the film wasn't laying flat.

 

[Ariston]

That's a good looking camera. I've never heard of it, but it sure is beautiful! Enjoy!

 

[BAC1967]

127 film is notorious for light leaks, you need to load it in very low light or learn how to do it in total darkness. Same goes for unloading until you get it back in the can. If I don't have a can I bring small squares of tin foil to wrap it in. I'm not sure what to make of the banding, the leaf shutter wouldn't cause that. When I use old cameras with the red windows on the back I usually do something to cover the windows. Sometimes light finds a way in through there.

One way to check the focus is to put some translucent tape across where the film would be and focus on it at know distances. Your focus scale could be off.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Put the negatives back in the camera as they would have been shot. Now look at places to either side of the actual image being shot at he moment. Thosle look like leaks that happen to the film before or after it is exposed.

Go into a dark room and wait. Open the back, put a flashlight inside the film spool chambers. Have the front open and look very carefully at the bellows AND the hinge, latches, etc.

Also look at the rollers and where they are held top and bottom. Somewhat hard bands like that often come from the rollers cutting off light from a leak and concentrating it.

Although loading and/or a loose roll is possible, they sure look like leaks near hard objects. Loose spooling leaks tend to be much more amorphous and erratic.

 

[AgX]

That's a good looking camera. I've never heard of it, ...

Goldammer was one of the smaller works, making various types. But I admit I never cane across any model.

 

[JensH]

Hi,

hmm, it seems you are spooling too much of the paper when loading.

With this camera the film transport is controled by one of the red windows,
so there is no need to spool until the arrows are visible like on the photo.
I would try only to put that much paper on the taking spool that it is securely moved by the turning knob.

Nice camera btw.

Best
Jens

...
I discovered the film is very sensitive as well. I put the film in with much care, but still got light bands on my first 4 shots due to it being light struck during loading. On several of the shots the focus is so spotty I think the film must not be held flat at all.

 

[sruddy]

That's a good looking camera. I've never heard of it, but it sure is beautiful! Enjoy!

It appears to be fairly rare. Thx

127 film is notorious for light leaks, you need to load it in very low light or learn how to do it in total darkness. Same goes for unloading until you get it back in the can. If I don't have a can I bring small squares of tin foil to wrap it in. I'm not sure what to make of the banding, the leaf shutter wouldn't cause that. When I use old cameras with the red windows on the back I usually do something to cover the windows. Sometimes light finds a way in through there.

One way to check the focus is to put some translucent tape across where the film would be and focus on it at know distances. Your focus scale could be off.

I need to thoroughly check focus again. The scale is definitely off as I could only get 4' in sharp focus. Last night I did a quick peek and to get 7' in focus the scale didn't point at any numbers. Looks like the scale itself is not adjustable so if I can't get the lens on differently I may need to make my own scale.

Put the negatives back in the camera as they would have been shot. Now look at places to either side of the actual image being shot at he moment. Thosle look like leaks that happen to the film before or after it is exposed.

Go into a dark room and wait. Open the back, put a flashlight inside the film spool chambers. Have the front open and look very carefully at the bellows AND the hinge, latches, etc.

Also look at the rollers and where they are held top and bottom. Somewhat hard bands like that often come from the rollers cutting off light from a leak and concentrating it.

Although loading and/or a loose roll is possible, they sure look like leaks near hard objects. Loose spooling leaks tend to be much more amorphous and erratic.

Thanks for the info, I'll look again in the dark. I definitely could have missed something.

Goldammer was one of the smaller works, making various types. But I admit I never cane across any model.

I found an ad for the camera. https://i1.wp.com/www.mikeeckman.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Steinheil.jpg I have no idea who which manufacturer made mine but it definitely has the less expensive shutter with top speed of 100! I found it hard to shoot outside in the sun with 400 film.

Hi,

hmm, it seems you are spooling too much of the paper when loading.

With this camera the film transport is controled by one of the red windows,
so there is no need to spool until the arrows are visible like on the photo.
I would try only to put that much paper on the taking spool that it is securely moved by the turning knob.

Nice camera btw.

Best
Jens

Thannks Jens, I'll use your suggestion next time.

 

[thuggins]

Several thoughts

1. It is an adorable camera.
2. I second the point about 127 needing extra care in loading. It is very susceptible to light leaks.
3. Phone app light meters are total crap. I have tried a number of them thru the years and none are better than one stop off.
4. The Rerachrome needs to be shot at 200 and it overexposes very quickly. Even at 200 the film comes out disturbingly yellow, so I have found a blue color correction filter (light blue, not sure of the exact number as that filter has no metal rim) really helps give more natural colors.
5. If the focus scale does not move if may be like the Baby Bessa. You have to hit the right one of the six leads of the lens mount thread. If someone took it apart and didn't pay attention to that, the focus will be off.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Enjoy. Folders are fun but can be habit forming and addictive.

 

[AgX]

Goldammer was one of the smaller works, making various types. But I admit I never cane across any model.

I have no idea who which manufacturer made mine but it definitely has the less expensive shutter with top speed of 100!

Good point! And I stand corrected. (I was negligent...)

Goldammer made a model called Golda.

But yours was made by Zeh in Dresden 1934.

 

[sruddy]

Several thoughts

1. It is an adorable camera.
2. I second the point about 127 needing extra care in loading. It is very susceptible to light leaks.
3. Phone app light meters are total crap. I have tried a number of them thru the years and none are better than one stop off.
4. The Rerachrome needs to be shot at 200 and it overexposes very quickly. Even at 200 the film comes out disturbingly yellow, so I have found a blue color correction filter (light blue, not sure of the exact number as that filter has no metal rim) really helps give more natural colors.
5. If the focus scale does not move if may be like the Baby Bessa. You have to hit the right one of the six leads of the lens mount thread. If someone took it apart and didn't pay attention to that, the focus will be off.

Thanks for all the info! Guilty on putting the lens back on incorrectly after cleaning. I was anxious and only checked 4’ after reassembly. I just put it on a tripod and strung out a tape measure with a calibration card on a stand to focus on. I started at infinity and everything except 4’ was out of focus. Then I screwed out the lens and backed it out one thread starting position. Infinity stop is now dead on. Focus appeared accurate at 4, 5, 12, and 29’. For some reason 7’ was actually still in focus at 5’ on the scale.
I’ll take your advice and underexposed it a stop as suggested but I think I’ll run another roll of Rera Pan 400 to make sure my focus and light leak problems are fixed first.
I think I’ll abandon the phone app meter. I wish my seconic was a reflective meter but I have a reflective spot meter attachment for it. I can either take multiple spot readings and average or pick a spot and go with it. I have never metered like this so that may take a bit of work to get the results I’m after. I could always use one of my digital cameras and set a zoom lens to match the Goldi’s focal length but then I have to lug it around.

Enjoy. Folders are fun but can be habit forming and addictive.

Thanks, I think your right!