You can also do things like put ice cubes in a plastic bag to cool the developer. If the water isn't actually so hot that it damages the developer, there is a time/temperature conversion chart on most of the Ilford data sheets and in the back of Anchell's _Darkroom Cookbook_, so you can adjust development time for a different temperature than you usually use. I use this all the time with Acufine, which I keep in a deep tank and replenish, but this is a developer that will crash if it gets too hot. I discovered this once when I'd been away for a few weeks one summer and came back to process my film, and the first six sheets came out blank. I'd later discovered that the air conditioning in our building had gone out for a few days, so it had probably reached over 90 degrees F. in our apartment. Now I always test to make sure the developer is still active if I haven't used it for a while.
Tropical developers were designed with hardeners usually to keep the emulsion from floating off the film or plates in hot climates. They still might be a good idea under those conditions with soft films like Efke, but probably aren't necessary with Kodak/Ilford/Fuji, which are harder and have protective layers.