Toning Dry RC prints

I have decided to try Selenium toning of my Resin Coated prints. As most of my printing is done at night, I would typically tone the prints the next day (after the prints have dried) outside and in the daylight.

I have just looked at the Kodak data sheet. One spot says to just soak the print in water for a few minutes. Another says to re-fix and wash the print prior to toning.

Does it really matter for RC prints?

Do I need to consider anything thing else?

Cheers

Just give a quick soak as suggested, you should be OK as long as you fixed properly in the first place.

Ian

Thanks Ian!

I do this with all my keeper Ilford MG IV RC prints on a regular basis. I use 2 bath fixer in my darkroom workflow, followed by a 2 1/2 minuted running water rinse, then dry. When it's time to tone, sometimes weeks later, I use a 30 second water pre-soak, followed by anywhere from 1 to 3 minutes in Ilford Selenium toner 1+9. This gives anything from an imperceptable tonal shift to something a little more obvious. I wash in running water again for 2 1/2 minutes, followed by a 1 minute treatment in Sistan for additional preservation, then hang to drip dry. Sistan appears to contain a wetting agent that allows the prints to drip dry nicely without the haze or blotchiness that otherwise requires the use of a hair dryer to avoid.

Regards,

Dave

Sorry to dig this back up again... I never did actually tone anything when I started this thread. I have to admit that I am apprehensive with the whole process (probably totally un-needed).

I have a bottle of Kodak Selenium. Since my main objective is to tone for protection, I am a little unsure of quantities and times. The bottle suggest 1:20 to 1:40, with toning times of 2 to 6 minutes. For a reluctant newby, these figures are just a little too broad for my liking! Should I start with 1:20 @ 2 minutes, or is this something that is totally subjective and can only be judged by the look of the results

Would it be OK to tone prints that are many months old? Just curious to whether this will make things worse or better.

Cheers

Hoffy --

Different papers accept toning at different rates. The Ilford MGIV glossy that I like to use is quite slow to tone compared to other papers, from what I've been told. I also tone with selenium mostly for preservation, but I don't mind getting just a slight increase in D-max and a very subtle, almost imperceptible shift in hue towards the red.

Yes, toning is a very subjective process, subject to toner dilution, time in the toning bath, the kind of paper, (most likely) temperature, and ultimately, the aethestic results you are after. In addition, the solution loses strength as you tone more prints, and will require increasingly longer times to produce the same results in the same batch. If you tone mainly for permanence as I do, be aware that it seems to remain inconclusive as to whether toning without any change in appearance really provides any protection at all. That's why I also treat my RC prints with Sistan after selenium toning, which causes no change in tonality but is proven effective in assiting image permanence.

I'm no chemist, but my understanding of selenium toning is that it's a reaction with the silver in the print, and the age of the print will have absolutely nothing to due with the effectiveness of the process.

Start with a print that you have two copies of, keep one untoned as a reference, and try one of them at 1:9 for 1 minute. Wash, dry, and compare to the reference print. If you think it needs more, you can put it right back into the toner for repeated treatments until you get the results you want. If it was too much, increase the dilution or reduce the time. Be sure to use latex gloves to keep the solution off your skin, and be sure to wipe up any spills, as dried toner can leave a residue that if inhaled is bad for your health.

Best Regards,

Dave

A thirty second soak in water prior to toning is all you need,I have never got a color change with selenium even at a strong dilution, with mgrc, or mgfb, it's only use is as part of archiveing the print,Richard

I always though RC didn't take selenium too well.
At least as far as changing tones is concerned.

I'll have to try some myself although I use RC mostly for smaller prints and for contact sheets for roll film.