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Toning developer

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Guillaume Zuili

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Has anyone tried the Burki and Jenny Toning Developer from the Cookbook ?
I'm really tempted.
Would be interested to see some examples if possible.
Thanks,
Guillaume
 

Ian Grant

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No, but a Pyrocatechin developer will give olive brown tones with a warm tone paper.

An alternative is process normally then use IT*8 toner the redeveloper is a simple Pyroctachin developer.

Ian
 

gainer

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You may use the formula for Pyrocat HD or MC or PC with hydroquinone in place of the catechol. Make the working solution considerable stronger than for film. The working solution oxidizes pretty rapidly, so mix only enough for 1 or 2 prints at a time.

Hydroquinone is a staining developer in the same class as catechol, but with a browner tone. Both of them must use little or no sulfite to get staining action.
 

gainer

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I forgot to say that the hydroquinone developer is a direct toner that acts during the initial development of the print.
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Since you've been using Emaks lately, it should work with a toning developer. More modern papers like MGFB are less likely to tone in a toning developer.
 

gainer

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Since you've been using Emaks lately, it should work with a toning developer. More modern papers like MGFB are less likely to tone in a toning developer.
I don't see why. It is the oxidation product of silver halide and hydroquinone or catechol that makes the color. It does work, at least, on MGIV.
 

nworth

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I haven't tried the B&J developer, but I gave G.262, a related brew, a try a couple of months ago. Not much effect with either Ilford WT RC or Forte RC papers. Many years ago, this developer gave a pronounced effect that could be varied by changing dilution and exposure. I guess papers have changed, and it just doesn't work as well now.
 

Snapshot

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I've used 510-Pyro as a toning developer. I get deep, rich olive browns using a 1:25 dilution and a 2 minute development time.
 
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