.....how can you accidentally 2x expose.?I wind after shooting to avoid accidental double exposures.
.....how can you accidentally 2x expose.?
Is it possible to trip the shutter without winding the film over.?
Thank You
Not all roll film cameras or film backs have double exposure prevention......how can you accidentally 2x expose.?
Is it possible to trip the shutter without winding the film over.?
Thank You
Some say that with especially fully mechanical cameras, leaving the shutter cocked for long periods is not good for the springs in the mechanism.
This is correct.I consider this a myth concerning practical terms.
Yes, there is a setting of a spring during static load.
But this is strongest within the first hours. (Think of a logarithmical curve.)
I do the same as Dirius since Hasselblad does recommend it. The only disadvantage I can see is that a certain piece of the film rolls bend in one position potentially for a long time and may suffer from a bend but this has never been a problem in day- to-day usage, as soon this bend reaches the image gate area, it is flattened by the back plate again.Me too.
Hasselblad designed its lenses to remain cocked for long periods of time and they recommended to always advance the film and cock the shutter. The dark slide is used to keep the camera from firing while not being used.
Me too.
Hasselblad designed its lenses to remain cocked for long periods of time and they recommended to always advance the film and cock the shutter. The dark slide is used to keep the camera from firing while not being used.
I wind on after exposure.
I have seen camera manuals that tell not to leave the camera cocked overnight. I have also read (on the internet, so it must be true!) that proper springs don't weaken/break if sitting in either their relaxed or tensioned states. It's when their state changes that springs might do unhappy things. I'm not a mechanical engineer so I can't verify if that's true or not.
I'm pretty sure my Hasselblad manual says it's fine to store lenses and bodies in their cocked state. Pretty sure... Of course trying to mount an uncocked lens on a Hasselblad body is definitely worse than keeping it cocked.
All that said, if a camera is empty, I make a weak attempt to store it un-cocked. But don't fret over it much.
I usually wind right after the shot because I've missed shots when I haven't. But if I use my old mechanical Pentax after not using it for awhile I sometimes forget. Then I grimace when I try to shoot and it doesn't fire. Which reminds me that it probably could use a nice walk. And I nearly always wind my Holgas after shooting so I don't get a double exposure. If I intend to get one, then I usually do it soon after or I leave a post-it on it.
For Hasselblad, their "natural state" seems to favor being cocked. The motorized Hasselblads always recock after each exposure. When Hasselblad lenses are shipped to retailers, the lenses are cocked and they may sit in the store for years. At the very least this reduces the chance of a jam by trying to mount/unmount a lens and body.
Mamiya RB67 favors being cocked, too, but it has a safety interlock to prevent a body/lens jam due to one being uncocked.
Try paying attention to what Forum You are in next time.I forgot this is the 35mm forum. I often shoot large format cameras with uncoupled rollfilm backs, so it's quite easy to double expose in that situation.
Over the years I've asked three mechanical engineers whether it's better to have springs under tension or not and each one has told me it doesn't matter: spring fatigue is caused by repeated flexing, not by one static state or the other.
Over the years I've asked three mechanical engineers whether it's better to have springs under tension or not and each one has told me it doesn't matter: spring fatigue is caused by repeated flexing, not by one static state or the other.
It does seem counter-intuitive...but i am NO Engineer.These engineers were ignorant, strict on terminolgy or wanted to put it easy for.
There is both, the effect of static pressure and of load/unload cycles. But as hinted at above I consider at least the former of no practical impact at cameras.
These engineers were ignorant, strict on terminolgy or wanted to put it easy for. [sic]
...
I wind after shooting to avoid accidental double exposures.
Same here. On my SLR's (without motor drive), I cock the camera as I'm bringing it up to my eye. It's just a simple thumb swipe, and doesn't slow me down any. It also prevents accidental shots of the back of a lens cap or blurry feet or whatever. On my rangefinders, I still have to measure the light, check the speed and aperture, as well as focus the lens, so the time it takes to cock the shutter doesn't really matter. None of my rangefinders have any electronics, by the way. Then again, I shoot a lot of large format, so I'm used to the idea of photography taking a while. Whenever I think I'm going to be in a situation where I might need to take an immediate shot without time to think, I'm using my DSLR. It excels at spray and pray style techniques.This is correct.
I never wind on, for several reasons. With an rf, it serves as a reminder to remove the lens cap. With slrs, I can advance the film before I get the camera to my eye, so missing "the shot of a lifetime" is not likely.
The instructions for my Nikon F2a say not to leave the shutter cocked longer than overnight.It depends what camera I am using, for instance if I am using a folder for mf, or my Rolleicord or Microcord that need the shutter cocking before taking a photo then I will wind on straight after taking the pic, if I am using my Rolleiflex then I wind on before taking the shot, with the Compur shutter in this camera you need to set 500 before cocking the shutter, with 35mm then some of my folders need the shutter cocking after winding, so I will wind on after the shot, with others I wind on before taking the shot as the instructions from them all say do not keep the shutter cocked as damage may result,with my Leica 3f the instructions state that when storeing the camera then set the shutter to 30 and uncocked, I have no instructions for my Canon 7 but I assume the same applies, every instruction for every old camera say the shutter should not be cocked all the time but set just before taking the shot, I assume the makers know their own cameras and who am I to argue? so I always make sure the shutters are kept uncocked other than when taking a photo
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