To squeegee or not to squeegee

Derek Lofgreen · Feb 9, 2006

Noob here so if this has already been discussed sorry. I sometimes end up with water spots on my film (35mm) because I can't seem to get enough of the water off the film when I hang it to dry. I was wondering if I should buy one of those little tong squeegee things to get better results. Ideas?

D.

rbarker · Feb 9, 2006

Proper use of a wetting agent usually solves most of the problem and avoids scratching the film with junk that can get trapped by the sponges used on the tongs.

Marco Gilardetti · Feb 9, 2006

If this question will get 10 replies, I guess you'll receive 11 suggestions.

My personal one is that I prefer not running the risk of having the emulsion scratched (which happened regularly when I used to use a raclette). So I just use a wetting agent (Ilfotol in my case) and let the thing dry in still air in a closed room.

Then, in the remote case that a spot is still there on an interesting frame, I wipe it off gently when dried up.

reellis67 · Feb 9, 2006

I would think that you need to look at your wetting agent instead of risking scratches with a squeege, but that's just my opinion and others may disagree. I use PhotoFlo at 1:400 and never ever get water spots. I'm sure that the other wetting agents are very similar, although I have not used any others to date.

Another thing I would look at is how fast the film is drying. If it is drying really fast, the water may not have time to sheet off properly before it dries on the film. Slower drying times seem to work better for me than trying to accelerate drying like the kids do here at the school where I work. They often get water spots because they like to use the heated drying cabinet for some reason. Again, these opinions are based on my personal experience so take 'em for what you will.

- Randy

Ole · Feb 9, 2006

If you need a wetting agent, use it. If you need a squeege, you should use a wetting agent instead.

(I use neither - soft water is a good help)

Derek Lofgreen · Feb 9, 2006

I use photoflo too. reellis67 may have a point with the drying time. My rolls only take about 10 minutes to dry. I can watch the water evaporate off the film most times. It is very dry where I live and I thought that maybe the quick dry time was causing it.

D.

reellis67 · Feb 9, 2006

To raise the humidity, try drying film in a steamy bathroom with the door closed. This should slow drying times enough to fix the problem as it will take the air in the closed room a while to dry out.

- Randy

Bob F. · Feb 9, 2006

I used to squeegee 35mm film, but no longer do so. I never did scratch a film (rinse it out in a bowl of warm water before each wipe - leave it wet) but I always knew it was only a matter of time...

I now do a final stand in distilled water (the film that is, not me...) with a couple of drops of wetting agent for 5 mins before hanging up to dry with a weighted clip at the bottom. I have very hard water but do not have any problems with this method. This works for any size film that I use, from 35mm to 4x5.

Good luck, Bob.

Marco Gilardetti · Feb 9, 2006

Ole said:
If you need a wetting agent, use it. If you need a squeege, you should use a wetting agent instead.

LOL

Oddly enough, there seems to be total agreement on this one!

jim appleyard · Feb 9, 2006

***NEVER*** squeegee!!! It only takes a small piece of grit to ruin part or all of a roll of film. Murphy was a photographer (amongst other things) and sooner or later you will scratch a roll of film and it will be an important one.

I squeegeed once and ripped healthy sections of the emulsion off the film; never did it again.

df cardwell · Feb 9, 2006

This is an echo chamber.

Always squegee, or use a chamois. A scratch is no worse than a watermark.

You have to work pretty hard to scratch film, and a suitably clean windshield wiper blade is harmless with care.

Still, it's a bit like using a straight razor: if you don't have the experience, the thought of a mistake can make one happen.

.

fhovie · Feb 9, 2006

so much for unanimous - I am so not a fan of squegee - yes - I scratched some really nice negs. I use this stuff called "banstatic" It is made by Fuji-Hunt. It is very hard to find and I am almost out but it is like magic. I use tap water and a few drops of banstatic and it repels dust and prevents waterspots very well. Amazingly well. If I do get a spot, a little nose oil makes it go away easy enough. Sticky dust is worse and a negative that attracts dust is almost impossible to work with.

pentaxuser · Feb 9, 2006

I've always used both. If it is a proper film squeegee and is washed and the blades left wet after washing to improve its initial slide properties then the chances of the blades trapping grit should be negligible. Of course like any other set of blades make sure they haven't cracked or gone hard.

The alternative to blades is using your fingers like blades, provided that you don't have hard calloused skin between your fingers.

However if wetting agent works by itself then there's no point in investing in a squeegee. I'd endorse the idea of not using an overheated drying cabinet. I used one at my B&W college course and it would dry and curl the film within a couple of minutes so needed constant watching and even then I'd be caught out sometimes . I have a Durst UT100 cabinet which has 2 heat setting. I use the lower heat only for a couple of minutes and then the fan only at ambient temperature for the remainder of the time. Wet to dry is only about 10-15 mins but with the fan only leaving the film longer does no harm.

Same applies to this as to any other item of darkroom equipment, don't buy what you don't need

Pentaxuser

Pentaxuser

Dave Miller · Feb 9, 2006

I don't use wetting agent, just a distilled water final rinse. If I'm in a hurry then I use menthol as a final soak. Tetenal market Drysol for this purpose, the film dries, mark free, in around 10 minutes using that.

Phillip P. Dimor · Feb 9, 2006

I don't like squeegees but I have used my two forefingers, wetted, as a squeegee and it works well. All in all though, I've rarely had the need to do that. Make sure you use two fingers without rings as a ring can scratch the film.

Also, have you tried flicking/shaking the wet reel with film still in it? That removes most of the larger water droplets..

Surly · Feb 9, 2006

I rinse in distilled water after my tap water wash. I use a drop or two of LFN in the distilled water and then I squeegee the film with my index and middle finger down the length to remove the bulk of the water. I always wet my hands in the rinse water first. I think however, you should always defer to Ole. His advice always seems to be the most down to earth.

Ole · Feb 9, 2006

Surly said:
... I think however, you should always defer to Ole. His advice always seems to be the most down to earth.

Some day I will have to begin following my own advice.

df cardwell · Feb 9, 2006

Ole said:
Some day I will have to begin following my own advice.

But Ole is just a kid !

.

fschifano · Feb 9, 2006

If you have a squeegee, throw it away immediately. No good will come of it. Sooner or later it will get you. Use PhotoFlo, Edwal LFN, or whatever wetting agent of your choice. It could even be a drop or two of dishwashing liquid in a quart of water - just enough so that the water doesn't bead up on the film. Hang it to dry and that's it.

Derek Lofgreen · Feb 9, 2006

fxchifano,
I do use photoflo, read above. The thing is, water still beads up. It doesn't shed the way it should because it dries to quickly.

I think Surly and others have a good idea using distilled water in the final wash with photoflo. I will try that to see what sort of results I get.

Thanks to all for the great responses.

D.

Jon Shiu · Feb 9, 2006

I don't like to put photoflo in the tank because it can cause bubbles in subsequent use of the tank. I squeegee with a photo wipe by folding it around the film at the top and holding on each side of the film. Move it down the film very slowly and the film will have almost no water on it when you are done. Depending on the temp and humidity, it can dry in 1/2 hr. to 1 hr. David Vestal describes a similar method in his book.

Jon

Sean · Feb 9, 2006

I do a wash, then i do 3 seperate soaks in distilled water then hang to dry, always dries completely clean for me.

raucousimages · Feb 9, 2006

I squeege negs for speed drying (hair dryer) all the time. They are for newspaper use when digital is not available, long story... Anyway, resolution is so low that small scratches don't matter but I ALWAYS have scratches in those negs. I never do it on good negs.

df cardwell · Feb 9, 2006

This isn't meant as trolling, but WHY haven't I had trouble with scratches in 37 years of shooting ? And I know some OLD TIMERS who always squeegee ( or chamois ) their film ?

Gosh, that's like 10,000 rolls of film and it isn't a problem. Photo-Flo in distilled water, the whole thing ....

As David Vestal says, you do it with 'ritual slowness'.
.

Charles Webb · Feb 9, 2006

DFC, and others,
I am with you in this squeege thing, I have used the same windshield wiper blade for nearly 50 years, and am still looking for my first scratch. I had a thingie that was made like stainless steel tongs that had some kind of foam between the fingers, always kept it hanging on th D Room wall for next time.
Seldom washed it in any thing other than dipping into the photo flo. Still could use it for film with sprocket holes if I could find it.. I guess I have been doing it wrong now for so long I most likely won't change. I recommend you do what works for you!

"Sgueege's don't scratch film, but clumsy dark room tec's do"

Charlie...................

To squeegee or not to squeegee

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To squeegee or not to squeegee

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