To Hassy or not to Hassy, that is the question..

Q.G. · Aug 14, 2009

Congratulations from me too.

Get a short (16 mm or 21 mm) extension tube as well. It will help lots when using the 150 mm for 'closer' portraits.
And then remember that you need to add a bit more exposure in compensation for the loss of light.

And even without tubes, you need to give it 0.5 stop more when the 150 mm lens is set to (or nearing) the close focus limit the focusing ring allows (i.e. unaided by tubes)!

Don't forget!

Phillip P. Dimor · Aug 14, 2009

I'll second the tubes, very useful to have. Also a lens hood, particularly if you have a C lens.

Willie Jan · Aug 15, 2009

Q.G. said:
Congratulations from me too.

Get a short (16 mm or 21 mm) extension tube as well. It will help lots when using the 150 mm for 'closer' portraits.
And then remember that you need to add a bit more exposure in compensation for the loss of light.

And even without tubes, you need to give it 0.5 stop more when the 150 mm lens is set to (or nearing) the close focus limit the focusing ring allows (i.e. unaided by tubes)!

Don't forget!

when the lens is at it's closest value,
it corresponds to about 30mm extension

so if you add the 21mm tube, it's a total of 51mm extension

51/150 * 2stops = 2/3 stops overexposure.

Q.G. · Aug 15, 2009

Willie Jan said:
when the lens is at it's closest value,
it corresponds to about 30mm extension

It is closer to 21 mm.
Indeed: the length of the old tube. So with that tube, you can go from infinity to a minimum field of view of a tiny bit over 20 cm without skipping a range.

Add that 21 mm tube, and take lens asymmetry into account as well, and the exposure compensation needed is even 0.9 stops.

You can have a look what the lens (and the 80 mm) will do with various amounts of extension, and how much exposure compensation is then needed, and a few things more, by using the online close-up calculator.

(P.S.
I see the online applet still has trouble remembering things between call backs.
If you get an error message, surf away to another page, then return to the applet, and it will probably work.
Sorry!)

AgentX · Aug 22, 2009

Sirius Glass said:
Yes, but to do so, one must turn the C-330 on its side, with the Hasselblad the information is on the top of the lens. It is part of the fiddle factor.

In answering another post, I recalled this one.

Were you using chrome lenses? With the black lenses, I can see the aperture and shutter speed indications, along with the shutter-cocking lever, from the waist-level viewing position. It's on the upper side of the lens on the left-hand side from the operator's perspective. As clearly visible as on any other camera. No fiddle factor whatsoever.

clayne · Aug 22, 2009

AgentX said:
In answering another post, I recalled this one.

Were you using chrome lenses? With the black lenses, I can see the aperture and shutter speed indications, along with the shutter-cocking lever, from the waist-level viewing position. It's on the upper side of the lens on the left-hand side from the operator's perspective. As clearly visible as on any other camera. No fiddle factor whatsoever.

Agreed. Don't know where Sirius is getting the C-330 hate from really.. It's a great camera and about 1/3 the price of a 'blad setup.

JRJacobs · Aug 22, 2009

clayne said:
Agreed. Don't know where Sirius is getting the C-330 hate from really.. It's a great camera and about 1/3 the price of a 'blad setup.

And is about three times the weight.

Sirius Glass · Aug 22, 2009

One example:
Rechecking becomes necessary when switch between lenses since the 250mm does not automatically cock when the film is advanced. So set up the exposure, focus, ready to shoot, opps is the lens cocked? check the lens, missed the opporturnity. Fiddle factor. The 250mm lens could have been designed to automatically cock.

Steve

Sirius Glass · Aug 22, 2009

Second example:
Changing lenses has more steps than most other cameras. It takes longer: close baffle, flip wire, remove lens, replace lens, cock the lens if necessary, flip wire, close baffle

versus

Push bottom, remove lens, replace lens.

Too much fiddle factor with the C2xx or C3xx. YMMV

Steve

AgentX · Aug 22, 2009

Wasn't arguing any of that, just the idea that you somehow had to do something other than look down to see/change the aperture and shutter speed settings.

Changing lenses isn't the strong point of the Mamiya, but I've never found it too be too big a disadvantage for me...I don't tend to swap them a lot while in the middle of shooting. If I did, I'm sure it'd piss me off.

clayne · Aug 22, 2009

First off, it's an advantage that the camera even allows changing lenses in the first place! It's the only TLR that I know of which offers such a feature. Second a negative on just the 250mm lens? These "fiddles" are too specific to affect 90% of the users of the C series that I just don't see how it's anything but axe grinding.

But let's talk about weight. According to the following, a 500 C/M w/ WLF + 80/2.8 + 120 back is 1555g.

According to Wikipedia a C-330 w/ 80/2.8 is 1700g. I don't know if this is with or without the WLF, but that would be 100g at most.

Sirius Glass · Aug 22, 2009

The C-330 does a better job than most TLRs with the parallex correction arrow. On the other hand I not only change lenses often, I also change film backs [color/ black & white] often. I will shoot something in black & white and then in color. There is no TLR that does that well.

If I were to use a dark filter or opaque filter, I would prefer a TLR over an SLR. I do not do that too often.

The questions are:
What do you shoot?
What do you want?
Hand size? Can you handle that camera easily?
What can you afford?

Only you can answer that question for yourself.

Steve

bibowj · Sep 9, 2009

Just to update those that care, Ive recieved my 500CM kit with the 80 planar and the 150/4, 2 120 backs, polo back and both a wlf and 45 degree. I bought the items all E- from Adorama and was very pleased with the quality. Sure, they were worn a little bit but nothing at all to be worried about.. The glass is in PERFECT condition... the 80 is from 1974 and has been managed well.

I find the focusing to be a bit challenging, even with the Acute matte D..but im thinking I will have to adjust:

Sirius Glass · Sep 9, 2009

Congratulations! Enjoy!

Steve

HelenOster · Sep 10, 2009

Message from Helen, Adorama Camera Customer Service Ambassador

bibowj said:
Ive recieved my 500CM kit with the 80 planar and the 150/4, 2 120 backs, polo back and both a wlf and 45 degree. I bought the items all E- from Adorama and was very pleased with the quality. Sure, they were worn a little bit but nothing at all to be worried about.. The glass is in PERFECT condition... the 80 is from 1974 and has been managed well.

Delighted to hear it!

jolefler · Sep 10, 2009

Having Helen Here...

is like having a guardian angel for APUG!

Jo

Bokeh Guy · Sep 12, 2009

Just a note on Dorr's site (I like his photos, by the way). He has posted some of his website photos on Flickr and some of the ones I thought were Rolleis are listed as Nikon D2X.

Krzys · Sep 12, 2009

I got a Hasselblad recently and hated the focusing at first, even with the Acute-D. After two weeks I am completely used to it and never notice any problems.

swittmann · Mar 23, 2010

Nicholas Lindan said:
(...)

Good lighting - the person referenced in the original post is a master at it, using a one light technique. There are several books on lighting, even ones specializing in one light portraits.

(...)

Nicholas, may I ask if there is a special book you would recommend?

Thank you very much

Sandra

brucemuir · Mar 23, 2010

I agree the 'blad takes a bit before you will be nailing focus quickly.
Don't get discouraged.

It will come with a bit of familiarity with the camera.

To Hassy or not to Hassy, that is the question..

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