lhalcong
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I have absolutely no interest in this "test" since not the same developer was used. Kind of pointless...
Thank you for your effort. My respect you have done it APUG way, on prints. I just can't "read" it, I can't rotate monitor. Why here is 100 at one of the print?
To me TMAX is lifeless film. And TRI-X is the best, but it is rich people luxury I can't afford
What film do you use? Here in the UK at least the Kodak and ILFORD films are comparable in price.
Tom
If I develop two films to the same level of contrast, what difference characteristics am I looking for then ?
Out of curiosity, why did you use two different developers? Both developers and films are designed to be used with each of them.
I have absolutely no interest in this "test" since not the same developer was used. Kind of pointless...
I shoot basically two type of subjects. Nature and People. (Keep in mind though that I am speaking subjectively), I feel I like TRI-X on D76 better when shooting nature and I feel I like TMAX on TMAX Dev. when I shoot people. Again; I am going by what my heart feels is better. So at this time I wanted to test my choices against each other's type of subject which I had not done before with the same exact scene. In other words, I wanted to feel how TMAX on TMAX Dev looks on Nature vs. TRI-X. and then I wanted to see how TRI-X compares to TMAX team on people. Again , with exact same subject and conditions. Makes sense ?
I could take it further and compare film to film on same developer or dev. to dev. with same film, but then again the combinations of films/developers would be almost endless. I heard trying to do this would be a futile effort not to say the time and resources required to do such thing.
There's nothing wrong with testing two different films in two different developers. The problem here isn't that the TMY is more contrasty in T-Max developer, but that the two films haven't been developed to the same contrast. You have a starting point with the first test. The best way to determine the contrast between the two films would be to do a sensitometric test, but you can also just reduce the TMY development time and retest until the shadows and highlights fall at the same point. The goal is to have two films developed to the same contrast so you can evaluate their characteristics.
I have started to shoot Tmax 100 developed in Xtol by a pro-lab. When scanning, I can play with post processing to get more or less contrast, lighter or darker shadows, etc. Would I be able to see a difference if I shot Tri-X considering the capabilities of post processing programs to change these variables pretty much at will? (I realize I'm comparing against Tmax 100 not 400. But the question would remain the same since all scans can be adjusted similarly in post).
I have started to shoot Tmax 100 developed in Xtol by a pro-lab. When scanning, I can play with post processing to get more or less contrast, lighter or darker shadows, etc. Would I be able to see a difference if I shot Tri-X considering the capabilities of post processing programs to change these variables pretty much at will? (I realize I'm comparing against Tmax 100 not 400. But the question would remain the same since all scans can be adjusted similarly in post).
Dear Ihalcong....
You can...BUT : then its not real, its not pure, I can tell, anyone can tell......and don't get me wrong I know your are not doing this but if I see one more oversharpened, fiddled about with image with an imported sky I think I will vomit... :
Despite the problems with the testing protocol, this post was very informative for me. I have always liked the look of Tri-X better than TMAX, but I had no idea why. From my usual assumptions, the finer grain and long, linear scale of TMAX should be better. This test showed enough to give me some hints. First, Tri-X is more forgiving. Although I have over 60 years of experience, and I know and more or less apply all the right rules, I'm still basically a snapshot photographer - I tend to concentrate on the scene a lot more than the camera. Forgiveness helps. Next, Tri-X is less likely to block up the highlights. With even decent metering, you can usually, but not always, avoid very high contrast situations. Sometimes you can adjust development. But when the highlights block up, even in a very small area, the picture always looks terrible. And it usually can't be corrected in printing. Tri-X is easier to work with here. Third, the microcontrasts in the shadows look better to me. Again, the overall lower contrast seems to help.
My experience has been the opposite, though I don't have near your experience level, so I could be off base. I'm assuming you developed both to the same contrast at grade 2? T-Max has always held highlights longer, and those highlights burn easier because the contrast hasn't tapered off. I do really like the spectral response of Tri-X though. I have a huge print above my fireplace taken with 35mm Tri-X that looks amazing.
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