TMAX 100 TMAX 400

Just wonder if everyone shoots these films at box speed and and what developers you use TMAX, XTOL or other.

I shoot TMax 100 at box speed, TMax 400 at ISO 200.
Process both in TMax developer: the 100 more or less as per manufacturer's instructions, the 400 pulled 1 stop (what? 60% of normal time? Have to look that up in my processing-notebook).

Will try Rodinal for TMax 400. I hope that Ian Grant will reveal how he does so, to save me a lot of trying.

I use them both on 35mm and 645. I shoot them at box speed and develop them using XTOL 1:1 dilution at 15% reduction in development time. Everything else is per what data sheet says.

Using condenser enlarger, I found this process creates most pleasing and easy to print negatives. I've tried using IE of 320 and 200 for Tmax400. I've found, the result weren't to my liking compared to IE of 400.

Please keep in mind, I tend to like deep shadow to be not so black. It looks too harsh/contrasty for me. Above is the best combination I've found that agrees with my sensibility.

Shows how things are different to different people.
Just because i don't like the too harsh (to me) contrast of TMax 400 at ISO 400 i overexpose and pull-process.

So don't just go by what we might say, but run your own tests, Marvin!
(Which you of course were planning to do anyway. And after saying that, i bet i know what Ian's response will be to my request to reveal how he treats TMax in Rodinal...)

I use them both at box speed and I'm really happy with the way they look when processed following Kodak's recommendations in D-76 or XTOL. Of course, I'll make some adjustments for the lighting conditions.

I use Tmax 400 at 250EI and develop in Pyrocat.

Marvin said:

Just wonder if everyone shoots these films at box speed and and what developers you use TMAX, XTOL or other.

Click to expand...

TMax-100 @ EI 64 in D76 1+1 for 11 min, rotary processing

TMax-400 @ EI250 in D76 1+1 for 11 min, rotary processing

Good Morning, Marvin,

For "normal" scenes, I use both at box speeds. For high-contrast work, such as flash-on-camera, I'll open up about half a stop for T-400. I process both in T-Max Developer, 1:7; my "normal" development is 10 minutes for T-100, 9 minutes for T-400 with inversion agitation. I make a seat-of-the-pants adjustment in time for subjects which are higher or lower than normal contrast, e. g., with on-camera flash and slight overexposure, I'll drop back to around 8 minutes for T-400.

Konical

T-Max 100: I rarely use it, but use at box speed and develop at an extrapolated manufacturer's recommended time in Ilfotec HC dilution H (I double the times recommended for dilution B, as I do with most films when using dilution H), or Rodinal 1:50 or 1:100 if I want it to be razor sharp and a little more punchy in the mid tones. I have never bothered to figure out anything else with the film, because it is not one of my main films. I use Neopan 100 when I want a 100 speed T-grained film, but sometimes on a trip T-Max is easily found, while Neopan is not. It is an outstanding film. I just prefer the tonality, the reciprocity, and the price of the Neopan.

T-Max 400: I love this film. I use it at box speed in T-Max developer according to the mixing directions on the bottle at the recommended time when I want to bring out the very best that this film has to offer, and I am not trying to tame contrast. I use this film almost exclusively for shooting in flat light. I mostly use it for overcast landscapes or shooting live performances in very low, muddy light. I have also processed it in HC, but not Rodinal (yet). The T-Max developer is punchier in the low and mid tones, and seems sharper, probably due to it not being as fine grained a developer as HC. As I said, the T-Max developer really seems to support the characteristics that make this film unique. When I do shoot the film in contrasty light, I usually overexpose it one to two stops (depending on the contrast of the light) and cut 30 or 50 percent from the developing time, respectively, using HC dilution H (again, double the dilution B time).

2F/2F, my goodness, I find out so much info just reading your posts.

I use T-max 100 all the time in 4x5 format. Rotary process in T-max developer. In terms of speed, PE writes the speed is set very close to 100 with trimming dyes during manufacture. In terms of exposure, with my equipment the EI is 50, your results may vary depending on a myriad of variables.

I just started using T-max 400 in 8x10, but may not continue because of the price. Again, rotary process in T-max developer.

In terms of speed testing, T-max 400 in T-max developer is the fastest "Box 400" film I have tested with a one second exposure. Looking at the specifications, it would seem to have many good characteristics for 8x10 photography; good reciprocity, high speed, long straight portion of curve, etc.
In terms of exposure, my EI is usually 250 to 125 depending on the meter, lens, format, type of metering etc.

The new Tmax 400 (TMY) is close to full box speed with D76 1+1 but for me I will rate TMax 100 TMX at 64-80 depending.

The new 400 is sooo much better than the old regarding grain structure/look and pushability.

RalphLambrecht said:

TMax-100 @ EI 64 in D76 1+1 for 11 min, rotary processing

TMax-400 @ EI250 in D76 1+1 for 11 min, rotary processing

Click to expand...

Is that with or without a pre rinse and at what temperature and revolution setting?
I have been researching online about rotary development and considering if it would be worth buying a Jobo CP for processing consistency.

Ralph, I should also have asked which Jobo processor you use?

Dear Marvin,

I use TMX and TMY at box speed and develop in a rotary processor (no pre-wet) using Xtol diluted 1+1. If I'm on a tripod I spot meter the shadows at 3-1/2 stops above box speed (my choice of shadows to meter might be different from yours). Handheld (Crown Graphic) I meter the most appropriate patch of grass (or whatever else I might choose) at box speed and then shoot away adjusting by eye.

A day of testing to match your methods to the film and developer you choose will be much more valuable than what others are doing as we all expose and develop in our own way.

Neal Wydra

I shoot both at box speed and use T-Max developer.

Jeff

smithy17 said:

Is that with or without a pre rinse and at what temperature and revolution setting?
I have been researching online about rotary development and considering if it would be worth buying a Jobo CP for processing consistency.

Click to expand...

I use a Jobo CPE2 plus, but sometimes I just hand-roll it on the table. I don't use a pre-rinse unless the development time is below 4 min. All my processing is done at 20°C, but I think that was stated on the attached sheets. The CPE2 plus has only one speed (75 rpm), which is also the recommended speed for the older CPE2.

Thanks for all the info I was thinking of using the TMAX 100 for landscapes and TMAX 400 for for my Bronica ETRSi handheld.

To the button same EI as Ralph, except I process in replenished Xtol.

Had I processed in fresh Xtol, I would have probably shot them at box speed both.

TMax 400 - Normal processing time = 10min with agitation first 30s, then 10s every 2.5 minutes
TMax 100 - Normal processing time = 9min with agitation first 30s, then 10s @ 7.5m, 5m, and 2.5m.

- Thomas

RalphLambrecht said:

TMax-100 @ EI 64 in D76 1+1 for 11 min, rotary processing

TMax-400 @ EI250 in D76 1+1 for 11 min, rotary processing

Click to expand...

I like Tmax400 for pretty much everything. I try to expose it enough, but sometimes there isn't enough light. I usually develop in D23 pretty good, but not too much.

I use both in 120 at box speed with XTOL 1:1. Standard times according to Digital Truth. Negs look fairly good IMO. I do think on really close observation that I could probably push 1/2 stop with both... must try next time ;-)

RalphLambrecht said:

I use a Jobo CPE2 plus, but sometimes I just hand-roll it on the table. I don't use a pre-rinse unless the development time is below 4 min. All my processing is done at 20°C, but I think that was stated on the attached sheets. The CPE2 plus has only one speed (75 rpm), which is also the recommended speed for the older CPE2.

Click to expand...

Thank you Ralph, I will try to pay more attention to details next time.
I use FP4+ as my main film, so I will ask about Jobo times for ID-11 and Ilford films some other day, as I don't want to hijack this thread which concerns Kodak T-MAX films.

Box speed and Microdol-X 1:3 for both; in 35mm, 120, 4x5 & 8x10.