TMax 100 - blue solutions?

[lantau]

I understand about the tanks. But Kodak is usually pretty good about supplying instructions for both commercial labs and hobbyists using small tanks. So it's frustrating that I can't find Kodak's recommended shelf life for working strength fixer in full, sealed containers.

I am not really concerned with fixer capacity. If I were to shoot 4 rolls of B&W 35mm film in a month, that would be extraordinary for me. I do mark each roll on the jug of the working fixer as I reuse it, but time is going catch me long before I exhaust the capacity.
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Thanks again to all the forum members for sharing your wisdom.

It would be difficult to say how long it will last. Adox says it's concentrate should be used within three months, once opened. For me it lasted two to three years, except once. Working solution up to a year. For you it might be the same or it goes belly up (actually sulfur down) after a short time. Depends on you and your environmental conditions.

 

[osella]

I had the exact same thing happen when processing some TMZ last week. It was only a few spots, but I do remember not agitating as much when fixing so chalked it up to reel contact. The hypo clear reduces the amount of washing I need to remove the stain (with hard water) and usually comes out quite pink.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

So, have you refixed and washed the negatives in question? What were the results?

 

[runswithsizzers]

So, have you refixed and washed the negatives in question? What were the results?

I have not. I am going with the assumptions that the problem is limited to the area of contact between the film and the reel, and the image area is probably OK.

If I am wrong, and the image is underfixed, then at least I will have digital copies for my hybrid workflow. I would prefer to archive the negatives for some unforseen use in the future, but I don't have a darkroom now, nor am I planning to build one. So, long term stability of the negatives is not enough of a concern for me to overcome my inherent laziness.

 

[koraks]

I am going with the assumptions that the problem is limited to the area of contact between the film and the reel, and the image area is probably OK.

It certainly looks that way. I personally wouldn't bother.

 

[Adrian Bacon]

Which step would normally elminate the last of the dye?

I followed my normal procedure which is to adjust all solutions to 20*C, then:
- pre-rinse with water - 1 minute, constant agitation
- develop (stock D-76, 6:30; 30 sec initial agitation, then 3 inversions every 60 sec)
- stop rinse with water for 30 seconds, constant agitation
- fix with rapid fixer for 6 minutes, constant agitation
- running water rinse for at least 1 minute
- Kodak Hypo clearing agent, 2 minutes with agitation
- final rinse with running water, at least 5 minutes (tank emptied a couple of times)
- Photo Flo 30-60 sec
- quick rinse with DI water
- dry

The only thing different this time was I switched to Kodak HCA from another brand. Maybe I need a longer, stronger final rinse? Or should the dye already be gone by then?

I just found this in Processing KODAK PROFESSIONAL Black-and-White Films - April 2018 • ED-BWF
"With KODAK PROFESSIONAL T-MAX Films, fixer will be exhausted more rapidly than with other films. If negatives show a magenta (pink) stain after fixing, fixer may be near exhaustion, or fixing time is too short. If the stain is pronounced and irregular, refix the film in fresh fixer."
That particular fixer had only been used on 3 rolls of 35mm film (36 exposures) - this roll of TMax100 was the fourth roll. None of the previous 3 rolls were TMax. The fixer was rather old, mixed to working strength back in April, but it has been stored in full container. Kodak says stock or working rapid fixer shelf life is "indefinite" in full containers. Anyway, I won't be using that fixer again, though it should probably be OK.

Your final rinse with running water could be longer. It doesn't have to be a huge amount of running water, as long as you're moving as much water as what your tank holds over a 5 minute period of time, which means you should probably be rinsing for longer than 5 minutes. The rinse isn't just to remove any fixer, it's also to finish washing out dyes and such, which is what you're seeing on your negatives. All that being said, I typically rinse my BW negatives for at least 15 minutes, but often times, for some that just take longer, as long as 30 minutes to get all the color washed out of the base. TMAX films in particular tend to be a bit stubborn that way. Other films, 15 minutes of running water is plenty of time, and often times the film base is cleared by the 10 minute mark, but I run it to 15 just to be consistent.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Insufficient running water or time during washes.

PE

I can concur.it's my experience that longer wet times remove the tint but, even so, I never found the tint to be a problem fror printing.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

I have not. I am going with the assumptions that the problem is limited to the area of contact between the film and the reel, and the image area is probably OK.

If I am wrong, and the image is underfixed, then at least I will have digital copies for my hybrid workflow. I would prefer to archive the negatives for some unforseen use in the future, but I don't have a darkroom now, nor am I planning to build one. So, long term stability of the negatives is not enough of a concern for me to overcome my inherent laziness.

If you never try to refix, you'll really never know if film sticking to the reel was your problem or not. I'm curious enough that I couldn't deal with not knowing. If you're happy with that, then great.

Best,

Doremus