TM100 Anti-halation layer just won't go away.

[pbromaghin]

Not really a good choice with modern high iodide emulsions with the electron sensitisation dyes - a near neutral pH ammonium thiosulfate fix is what's really needed, not a fairly acid sodium thiosulfate one.

So Eastman's main fixer product is not good for it's most popular films? Now I'm really confused.

 

[Lachlan Young]

So Eastman's main fixer product is not good for it's most popular films? Now I'm really confused.

I'd not call the powder fixer product their 'main' fixer. They make two ammonium thiosulfate liquid rapid fixes, one specifically marketed for TMax emulsions, the other with a bottle of optional hardener. There are few reasons to use sodium thiosulfate fixers today unless you are doing using specific processes (often alternative/ handcoated ones) where the less aggressive sodium thiosulfate offers advantages.

The pH of powder Kodafix is under 4.5 - and I've noticed that low pH fixes in particular can produce the fixing problems you are having - a fix with closer to a neutral pH seems to fix faster/ better and remove the dyes more effectively. It's just as obvious with Ilford materials too. The problem is that too many BW fixer products seem to have not been updated to reflect that emulsions generally don't need hardening fixers today - and that adoption of materials/ techniques from colour emulsions has left them needing a more neutral C-41-esque fixer that can remove the residual dyes more efficiently.

 

[MattKing]

Eastman Kodak has nothing to do with any Kodak photo chemistry (with the possible exception of ECN photo chemistry). Eastman Kodak also sells huge bins of certain components, for the motion picture lab crowd.
The rest of the Kodak photo chemistry - formerly Kodak Alaris, now Kodak Alaris via Sino Promise - is mostly oriented toward commercial labs. They still sell some products that are packaged in sizes and ways that are appropriate for the low use hobbyist.
The powder fixer is one such product. Rapid fixers can't practically be packaged that way, so a user that requires fixer in a bag doesn't have any way to access the more advanced products.
Tri-X, FP4+, HP5+ and most printing papers can be used effectively with powwder fixer, although other choices are better.

 

[pbromaghin]

This is getting fun.

I don't shoot the Tmax films any more and this batch was part of my Vivian Maier pile of unprocessed film. With it being about the only fixer (plus the Ilford rapid fix) I can get locally, I can continue to use it on my usual HP5+, FP4+ (and SFX?). However, I do have a few Tmax rolls remaining, as well as some Ilford Delta rolls. You've established what fixers are not for the tmax films. Does this also apply to the Ilford Deltas? If not this, then what is appropriate for Tmax and Delta?

 

[MattKing]

Any Rapid fixer - Kodak Rapid Fixer, Ilford Rapid Fixer, Ilford Hypam are the three I have used.
It may not be relevant to the issue, but I always use the Kodak version without hardener added - I use those little bottles of hardener when I tone prints.
Other fixers are suitable, but they will invariably be liquid, not powder.

 

[Tom Kershaw]

As it happens I processed a roll of T-Max 100 135-36 on Sunday, put through a 2-bath fixer (Jobo process) with no pink showing. I mix up 2x 1000ml solutions (1+4 dilution) and use the set for 16 rolls before getting rid of the 1st bath and making the 2nd the 1st etc.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

pbromaghin,

Have you tried an alkaline bath? FWIW, no fizzing. It solved my problem, which was obviously a manufacturing issue, not the normal pink left-over sensitizing dyes.

Kodak powdered fixer is, as mentioned, not the best choice for modern films, especially T-Max films.

Best,

Doremus

 

[pbromaghin]

pbromaghin,

Have you tried an alkaline bath? FWIW, no fizzing. It solved my problem, which was obviously a manufacturing issue, not the normal pink left-over sensitizing dyes.

Kodak powdered fixer is, as mentioned, not the best choice for modern films, especially T-Max films.

Best,

Doremus

I am about to try your suggestion this afternoon and will update the thread with the results. While putting the films back on the reels I did see some other, probably unrelated, things that didn't look right, likely some other kind of user error. I may show them here or start another "Oh My God, What Did I Do?!?" thread.

 

[Auer]

@pbromaghin
I have used Cinestill F96 for a few months now on a various films including Delta 100 and XP2 Super and have been happy with it.
Its fast too. And can be used for bleach bypass with C41 as well.
https://cinestillfilm.com/products/f96-bw-bleach-bypass-rapid-fixer

 

[relistan]

No one in the US seems to carry it, but for others, ADOX’s Adofix P II is also a powder rapid fixer. Comes in bags for 1L or 5L. https://www.fotoimpex.com/chemistry...er-fixer-to-mix-1000-ml.html?cache=1615976578

 

[Saganich]

I happen to use TF4 archival fixer, which is alkaline, and never re-use any of my chemistry. Never. Just enough fixer is mixed fresh each session, and discarded afterwards. TMax films, regardless of type, sheet or roll, come out of the fixer barely pink, and then are completely clear after just a few minutes of water rinse. No HCA needed. TF4 isn't nearly as cheap per volume as ordinary fixer, but what is your time worth? I'd either have cobwebs on me or outright die of old age if I took as much time to fix and wash film as some of you do.

Same experience. I mix up 500ml TF4 and run about 20-25 rolls of 36 before discarding. The first 15 - 20 rolls of TriX come out clear, then they don't. That my cue to think about discarding the fix.