momus, I think they do a fine job and I've used them on nicer cameras with nicer lenses and you couldn't tell it was a cheap plastic CUL.
The put that attaches to the Holga's lens w the notches is plastic (it's all plastic) so it's very easy to file/cut notches and flip them to rubber band them to the TLR body as I said above.
I also took it a step further and wrote the focus distance in inches on each one of mine for easy reference. I also have a piece of string w knots tied on it that I can use to get my focus distance right that i keep with the holga when I use them w it.
For $20 USD for the 2 sets, you can't go wrong IMHO.
Look forward to seeing what you do with them! (Assuming you post results)
I often use a "stick" version of your string trick with my Portra +2 and +3 closeup lenses. It consistes of two separate wooden dowels cut to the correct lengths. The one stick is 1/3 m long and is used by itself with the +3 filter, while the shorter (1/6m long) stick is only used in combination with the other one to get the combined 1/2m length needed for the +2 filter. The quick connect/disconnect feature is accomplished via a short section of tubing glued to the end of the shorter stick, and allows the pair to fit in a modest sized camera bag. As rigid sticks, they are convenient in that only one hand is needed to hold the stick while setting up he camera.
Here's a picture.
In addition to Matt's comments, with the Mamiya C330 series with the 55mm wide angle lens pair fitted you can get 1:1 life size reproduction without any accessories.A Mamiya C series camera allows close-up work without any accessories. At maximum bellows extension the subject coverage with an 80mm lens is 8.6x8.6 cm.
If you have a C330 there is an exposure compensation aid and parallax correction guide built into the viewing system. A paramender accessory helps with composing.
That's true John, but the Mamiya paramender moves the taking lens up 50mm the distance between all the Mamiya C lenses into the exact position of the viewing lens so there is no parallax error .The limitation of the TLR may be having to shoot straight on to the subject.
If you shoot at an upward or downward angle adjusting for parallax can be exciting when you have to compensate for both upward and forward movement.
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