TLR Close Up Lenses for Still Life Photography?

[gone]

I'd like to do some still life photography in low light w/ a 6x6 camera, and retain the whole negative on the alternative type of printing I'm doing. While my Argoflex delivers wonderful results, I realize that I will probably have to go to a TLR with a bayonet mount in order to use close up filters like the Rollei and Yashicas have. Did anyone make close up filters for non bayonet lenses? Just simple push on filters? How about the Lomo stuff? I'm not after ultimate sharpness, more of a pictorial look. I can't crop the shots to get what I want, as I wish to display the film's markings also (like the shots below, but in close up modes of flowers, bottles and stuff).

 

[snapguy]

dim recall

I seem to recall, from the dim recesses of my alleged brain, that there were box-ish cameras that had close up abilities. But I don't know why you couldn't "Mickey Mouse" up something, by deciding how to put closeup lenses in front of your camera's lenses. The way I see things, it is no crime to crop a negative and I was hoping the curious tribal practice of printing the whole frame and a little more went out with the unwashed hippies of the 1960s. But I guess not.

 

[jeffreyg]

If I understand you correctly, you would like to mount non bayonet filters including closeup + diopter attachments. There are adapters for bayonet to screw in filters. I have some and use them on Hasselblad lenses with B+W screw-in filters. You would have to check the sizes you need. Try the BH website I'm sure they carry them.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/
http://www.sculptureandphotography.com/

 

[jeffreyg]

Me again. There are B+W closeup lenses from +1 through +5 from37mm to 77mm (screw in) and they can be stacked but when stacking check for possible vignetting.

 

[Pioneer]

I don't have an Argoflex to test but I have been able to find slip on adaptors for my folders that allow the attachment of thread on lens accessories. I would expect that with a bit of research you could locate something. This website has been tremendously useful for me in the past.

http://www.songofsnow.com/

Try contacting them with your question as well.

 

[Hatchetman]

Kodak Series VI push-on adapter and closeup filters. Tripod. Works OK.

 

[alienmeatsack]

If I may interject my own personal experience in this regard...

I've done TLR closeup work with many of my assorted TLRs from Ricohflexes Yashicas to Lubitels. There are several things to consider...

You will either need 2 of each close up lens, small enough to fit on both the taking and the viewing lens OR will have to put the lens/filter onto the taking lens, get the item in focus, then move it to the taking lens.

Or, you can get one that is small enough it does not block one of the lenses when it's over the other and rubberband it or hold it over the lens. I know this sounds rinkydink but it works. And since the rubber bands are flexible, they will move as you adjust focus.

I actually use 2 different lenses more or less. One is via a B1 adapter to 46mm diopter, which I use on my MAT-124G. This one obscures the other lens when installed so I have to get the item in focus then move to the taking lens for my shot.

The other is the cheap Lomo Holga close up lens kit. They are small and take quite nice shots IMHO. They are cheap enough that if you drop and scratch one, its no huge loss. They have slots in them around the edges where they compression fit onto the Holga camera's lens, but I actually flip them over so the close up lens is backwards and those slots are facing outwards. Then use those slots as the means to rubberband the lens to the body of the TLR.

If you are moving around a lot, need lots of flexibility, I suggest trying to find close up lenses that fit your taking and viewing lens on your TLR so you have freedom to move, focus and shoot as needed.

But I've had good luck with all the above methods and those Holga close up lenses are really not bad quality for cheap plastic lenses... as far as the end photo results.

 

[MattKing]

A Mamiya C series camera allows close-up work without any accessories. At maximum bellows extension the subject coverage with an 80mm lens is 8.6x8.6 cm.

If you have a C330 there is an exposure compensation aid and parallax correction guide built into the viewing system. A paramender accessory helps with composing.

 

[gone]

Right, I'll need two lenses. A matched pair, like the Rollenars. Was wondering if anyone made them that were push on, although I never thought about adapting them w/ push on adapters to my Argoflex, which takes push on filters. That may work. I see no harm in cropping, but I don't want that on my current way of working. I want the film's info to show up on the print. I want the whole thing, not just the image area. Just because. Thanks for the info on the Lomo close up lenses. I'll investigate that, although I suppose I'll have to buy a Lomo camera. Probably won't cost much for the whole thing. I really would rather avoid putting the close up lens on the top lens, then onto the bottom one. I did that once on a Rolleiflex, and it works, but it is tedious to say the least.

The other idea I had was to get a Century Graphic w/ a roll film back, but I do already have the Argoflex, so may as well see if I can use it. I'm prepared for the parallax thing w/ a TLR and close up shots. Maybe the Holga camera and Holga close up lens will be the easiest solution. Thanks again for that info.

 

[gone]

Woo woo! Amazon has a 3 lens Holga close up kit for 11 bucks, shipped. I could buy two of those for the Argoflex, use the extra ones on the top lens as well as the bottom, and have a matched set. Perfect. Sounds too good to be true for this price.

http://www.amazon.com/Holga-Close-Up-Lens-Set/dp/B004FEEV8Y

 

[alienmeatsack]

momus, I think they do a fine job and I've used them on nicer cameras with nicer lenses and you couldn't tell it was a cheap plastic CUL.

The put that attaches to the Holga's lens w the notches is plastic (it's all plastic) so it's very easy to file/cut notches and flip them to rubber band them to the TLR body as I said above.

I also took it a step further and wrote the focus distance in inches on each one of mine for easy reference. I also have a piece of string w knots tied on it that I can use to get my focus distance right that i keep with the holga when I use them w it.

For $20 USD for the 2 sets, you can't go wrong IMHO.

Look forward to seeing what you do with them! (Assuming you post results)

 

[Denverdad]

I was just thinking - wouldn't single (as opposed to pairs of) lenses actually be sufficient? After focusing and correcting for parallax, you just have to move the closup lens from the viewing lens to the taking lens before capturing the image. Granted, that could be slightly awkward if your lens is rubber-band mounted; but not really any more so than having TWO rubber band mounted attachments. Anyway, if you decide you really like the camera and might want to try other types of filters with it, the series filter approach is worth considering.

Jeff

 

[Denverdad]

I often use a "stick" version of your string trick with my Portra +2 and +3 closeup lenses. It consistes of two separate wooden dowels cut to the correct lengths. The one stick is 1/3 m long and is used by itself with the +3 filter, while the shorter (1/6m long) stick is only used in combination with the other one to get the combined 1/2m length needed for the +2 filter. The quick connect/disconnect feature is accomplished via a short section of tubing glued to the end of the shorter stick, and allows the pair to fit in a modest sized camera bag. As rigid sticks, they are convenient in that only one hand is needed to hold the stick while setting up he camera.

Here's a picture.

momus, I think they do a fine job and I've used them on nicer cameras with nicer lenses and you couldn't tell it was a cheap plastic CUL.

The put that attaches to the Holga's lens w the notches is plastic (it's all plastic) so it's very easy to file/cut notches and flip them to rubber band them to the TLR body as I said above.

I also took it a step further and wrote the focus distance in inches on each one of mine for easy reference. I also have a piece of string w knots tied on it that I can use to get my focus distance right that i keep with the holga when I use them w it.

For $20 USD for the 2 sets, you can't go wrong IMHO.

Look forward to seeing what you do with them! (Assuming you post results)

 

[Pioneer]

I often use a "stick" version of your string trick with my Portra +2 and +3 closeup lenses. It consistes of two separate wooden dowels cut to the correct lengths. The one stick is 1/3 m long and is used by itself with the +3 filter, while the shorter (1/6m long) stick is only used in combination with the other one to get the combined 1/2m length needed for the +2 filter. The quick connect/disconnect feature is accomplished via a short section of tubing glued to the end of the shorter stick, and allows the pair to fit in a modest sized camera bag. As rigid sticks, they are convenient in that only one hand is needed to hold the stick while setting up he camera.

Here's a picture.

Thanks, this is a good idea.

 

[ic-racer]

You can use any close up lens, just hold it over the taking lens. Focus first by holding it over the viewing lens and moving the tripod back and forth. You can then use your tripod column to lift the camera up a few inches after focusing to remove parallax error of the viewing lens.

 

[benjiboy]

A Mamiya C series camera allows close-up work without any accessories. At maximum bellows extension the subject coverage with an 80mm lens is 8.6x8.6 cm.

If you have a C330 there is an exposure compensation aid and parallax correction guide built into the viewing system. A paramender accessory helps with composing.

In addition to Matt's comments, with the Mamiya C330 series with the 55mm wide angle lens pair fitted you can get 1:1 life size reproduction without any accessories.

 

[John Koehrer]

The limitation of the TLR may be having to shoot straight on to the subject.
If you shoot at an upward or downward angle adjusting for parallax can be exciting when you have to compensate for both upward and forward movement.

 

[benjiboy]

The limitation of the TLR may be having to shoot straight on to the subject.
If you shoot at an upward or downward angle adjusting for parallax can be exciting when you have to compensate for both upward and forward movement.

That's true John, but the Mamiya paramender moves the taking lens up 50mm the distance between all the Mamiya C lenses into the exact position of the viewing lens so there is no parallax error .

 

[DaveO]

I think the viewing close up lens has to be aligned properly. There may be a red dot or something that has to face up. If you find close up lenses, you may need to find instructions to use them. Unless you are like me who doesn't read instructions or doesn't ask for directions.