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Tips on treating/drying old school emulsions

VaryaV

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Hiya!

I'm getting ready to shoot Efke 50 and Adox 50 and I understand these emulsions are very soft. Normally I Photoflo and squeegee but I doubt that is the recommended process for these films. Can you Photoflo these films and just hang them to dry? will they streak?

What is the process some of you folks use for soft emulsion films?

Thanks

ps. oh, and I picked up some Hardener.
 

Jerevan

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My take: hardening fixer, careful handling and I would use a spraybottle of distilled water and photo-flo. Others might disagree. First time I developed Efke 100, I was surprised by the "goo" in the leader and when I touched it, okay that was the emulsion sliding off...
 

Ian Grant

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First these aren't old school, in fact they were way ahead of their time - the first modern thin film emulsions

Treat with care but normally, keep all parts of the process cycle to a tightish temperature control +/- 1°C. I've used EFKE/Adox films since the early 1970's in all formats and in recent yerars they at least have some hardening, I've not had a problem in the past 20 years or so.

I haven't used a hardening fixer since the 1970's for any films and as long as you are careful these EFKE films shouldn't be a problem, use Photoflow as normal bt don't squeegee .

Usually issues with these emulsions are down to poor temerature control.

Ian
 
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VaryaV

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Good enough and thank you both for the advice. I've heard about emulsions sliding off before.

And thanks for correcting me on these very modern films, Ian ...

How have you been anyway? Long time no see.

CHEERS!
 
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paul_c5x4

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I've used a few rolls of Efke IR820 and just finished a box of Adox film - Treated them the same as I would with Ilford. i.e. Dev in D76 or 510-pyro, fix in Fotospeed FX30 or FX40, and a final wash with Ilfotol/Photoflo in distilled water. Having scratched a roll or two of PanF/FP4, I no longer squeegee any film or touch the wet emulsion.
 

hpulley

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I use Ilford Rapid Fixer without hardener, Ilfotol and hang my film to dry and yet I still manage to ruin my Rollei 400S. My Ilford and Kodak are fine unless I have a really tough time loading the plastic reel. Might try steel instead for the 400S to see if gentler loading helps.
 
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VaryaV

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Yes, I recently had to quit squeegeeing my film as I noticed I was getting long scratches on film. I thought it was the film holders but then I noticed I had a burr on the squeegee... no more. I thought the photoflo streaks would show in printing but they didn't.

Pulley I am just the opposite. I can't get the hang of plastic reels and find the stainless the easiest though I only like anymore, the kind with the 2 prongs on them as fool proof. I would like to get more but I don't know who makes them or where you can get them most places just show the standard clip-type.

I will be souping these in Rodinol. I bought it years ago and it has sat unopened on the shelf (sigh). I just shot a test roll of D100 in it as was astounded at the range of mid-tones. I pretty much use DDX for everything as I have had too many explosions with powdered chems...
 

hpulley

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I have the two prong Nikor reels but my 400S is unperforated so I can't put the prongs on the sprocket holes so it doesn't want to stay put... I guess I could try a reel with a clip like my 110 reels.
 

georg16nik

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Harry, medium format or 135 are ok on plastic Jobo or Paterson, just the film front leading corners should be slightly cut/rounded @ lets say 45°
 

MattKing

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VaryaV

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MattKing

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VaryaV said:
Fantastic - Thank you Matt. I didn't know what they were called. Someone gave me mine and they are fool-proof.

Harry, I have never seen that happen from spools... . those are some nasty scratches.
Click to expand...

VaryaV:

If you look very, very carefully along the outside of your reels, you may very well be able to see the name "HEWES" enscribed lightly on the steel.

If it is there, it can be hard to see.
 
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