Some hints from my experience:
1) choose an image that requires relatively little manipulation. Complex burning and dodging schemes are difficult to repeat consistently over many prints, and can lead to this seeming like "work";
2) your magnification will be low, so diffraction won't be as important in the result. Small apertures are fine, so you can achieve longer print times;
3) always use some filtration with variable contrast paper, even if the target is grade 2 - longer print times will result;
4) neutral density filters for the light source can help lengthen print times. If your enlarger permits different diffusion boxes, use the one for the largest format - longer print times may result;
5) one 8x10 sheet yields three 4x6 cards, plus a small strip for tests. You can cut the 8x10 into an 8x6 and a 4x6 and print each 4x6 half of the 8x6 sequentially, leaving two postcards on the same sheet;
6) all print developers can be used over a range of developing times. If you are developing several prints at the same time, set up the workflow based on the longer end - both for tests and final prints. The longer time helps even out the developing result;
7) Latent images do change over time with printing paper. The effect is relatively small, but if there is going to be a delay between exposing and developing your prints, you should build in a delay between exposing and developing the test strip. A 60 second delay should suffice;
8) If you intend to tone your prints, it is worth your while to do a first print, go completely through the process including toning, and then evaluate the dried result;
9) It is relatively easy to add a 4x6 mat board insert to a larger and heavy easel;
10) If you are nerdy, you can do what I do, which is set up a mail-merge template for the labels, and take the file of addresses that come from George and convert it into the data form that my mail merge software (WordPerfect) requires.
I'll stop there, for now.