tinted paper

[uraniumnitrate]

We have talked about papers here a little while ago and I just remembered that I’m searching after colour paper but, not of any kind!
the paper got to be a hundred percent cotton with a smooth kind of surface and tick as what we call a double weight! The paper got to have very low Ph value and tinted preferable with organic material like plants or any of this type!

This paper got to be artist quality and could left it in water for hours with out falling apart! I have brought a bunch in the Village in New Your city a long time ago but, the shop is gone and my paper is gone! The colors I'm intresting in is those on that little stip I included here or look alike.

I have tried to tint myself but it didn’t hold through out of the process. Asking; Is that any one know how to tint to archival standard if not than any of you have any ideal where I can get it??

 

[Photo Engineer]

Kodak tinted all of their baryta and titanox with inorganic pigments before coating on the FB or RC support.

It is very difficult to put a pigment into any paper after it is made.

One method might be to mix a pigment with baryta in gelatin and coat it. This used to be done about 100 years ago when hand-making photo papers. Another way might be to precipitate a pigment in-situ by chemical means. An additional method would be to use an organic colorant and mordant it in place, but these types of colorants are not as stable as pigments.

PE

 

[uraniumnitrate]

It is very difficult to put a pigment into any paper after it is made.
PE

I have very unfortunately experienced the tinting of the already made paper! Sad but not giving up yet!

Okay! What kind of choices I have when it comes to color with Titanox? Is that the same as Titan Oxide?

By the way I think that paper I had proboly could originated to France! As I recover there was a lot's of french words (names that is) in that shop on papers!

 

[Photo Engineer]

Titanox (Titanium Oxide) is used only in RC papers.

Use Baryta (Barium Sulfate) with FB.

Medical Baryta paste (60%) can be purchased and blended with a pigment and gelatin and then coated. If you do this, you will have to use a high pressure roller to smoothe out the baryta, or it will be like sand paper.

A brown pigment used at low level will give a cream colored paper.

PE

 

[Ole]

...The colors I'm intresting in is those on that little stip I included here or look alike.

That looks a lot like the Canson tinted paper in my local stationery store - sheets of about 60x40cm, lots of different colours, quite thick-ish (could it be 180 gsm)?

 

[uraniumnitrate]

That looks a lot like the Canson tinted paper in my local stationery store - sheets of about 60x40cm, lots of different colours, quite thick-ish (could it be 180 gsm)?

Hello there! That's interesting! Can you find out a little bit more about it? please+

 

[George Papantoniou]

What about tea (I mean camelia sinensis leaves) ? Different kinds of tea (green tea, black tea, several kinds and qualities) might give to a paper different colours when you soak it (for different amounts of time and different temperatures, of course).

 

[uraniumnitrate]

Titanox (Titanium Oxide) is used only in RC papers.

Use Baryta (Barium Sulfate) with FB.

Medical Baryta paste (60%) can be purchased and blended with a pigment and gelatin and then coated. If you do this, you will have to use a high pressure roller to smoothe out the baryta, or it will be like sand paper.

A brown pigment used at low level will give a cream colored paper.

PE

Well, not exactly sanding I having in mind! But what kind of psi figure we talking about here?

 

[uraniumnitrate]

What about tea (I mean camelia sinensis leaves) ? Different kinds of tea (green tea, black tea, several kinds and qualities) might give to a paper different colours when you soak it (for different amounts of time and different temperatures, of course).

Its okay have heard and seen evidence that people using it but I haven’t used yet on my own final B/W prints as I don’t really like it! I used other plants and flowers but the problem here is that they are all okay if you use it on the final print but I got to have it before I begin with the process and than it not hold its washes out during the process and I haven’t got the any possibilities to fix it! When its dries got different density of the same tone

 

[Photo Engineer]

Well, not exactly sanding I having in mind! But what kind of psi figure we talking about here?

That is difficult to say. The Kodak calendaring rollers applied thousands of pounds of pressure to the paper. It depends on the final surface you want. Glossy paper takes the highest pressure and the smoothest roller. It was, in fact, polished stainless steel. The other surfaces used engraved rollers.

The rollers were heated, as the paper was hot press finished.

PE

 

[Photo Engineer]

Tea will stain the paper with an off white, but it will fade with time as any organic colorant will.

PE

 

[uraniumnitrate]

engraved rollers.


PE

Thats exacly what I'm having in mind from the grafic industry but heating is a problem as this guys using it for cupper plates and stone! But you could regulete the pressure! it's really big what they got! I'm going to check it out tomorrow! It maybe can be heated but I don't know! And the temp would be what If it goes. What would be enough?

 

[uraniumnitrate]

Tea will stain the paper with an off white, but it will fade with time as any organic colorant will.

PE

Sure but than it bound in the process and than it will be more stable also under the protective UV will slow that process isnt it? Thats why I need to have the color first and than the process on it! I felt at the time that I should have brought that whole shop!

 

[Photo Engineer]

Thats exacly what I'm having in mind from the grafic industry but heating is a problem as this guys using it for cupper plates and stone! But you could regulete the pressure! it's really big what they got! I'm going to check it out tomorrow! It maybe can be heated but I don't know! And the temp would be what If it goes. What would be enough?

IIRC, the Kodak rollers were heated with pressurized steam, but that is all I know. The paper was dry at the time. And the temperature was obviously below the char point of gelatin or paper which is what? About 200 deg C? IDK offhand. I know that it is about 450 F.

PE

 

[uraniumnitrate]

That is difficult to say. The Kodak calendaring rollers applied thousands of pounds of pressure to the paper. It depends on the final surface you want. Glossy paper takes the highest pressure and the smoothest roller. It was, in fact, polished stainless steel. The other surfaces used engraved rollers.

The rollers were heated, as the paper was hot press finished.

PE

It is stailess thats no problem what I'm vorried about that thousands pounds and the heating! but I will know tomorrow a little more about it!

Is it any other way?

 

[uraniumnitrate]

what I got is.....

Stainless polished rollers, no heating and max.1.2 ton which is 1200kg.


I forgot, they are not using it for stone only for copper! I don't know where I got that idea from?

 

[Photo Engineer]

Well, thats 2,400 pounds. I know that the Kodak paper was heat treated, because it was HOT next to the rollers. It could be that I'm confusing a hot press step before the baryta application with the press step after baryta application.

There are 2 press steps involved in making baryta.

PE

 

[uraniumnitrate]

Well, thats 2,400 pounds. I know that the Kodak paper was heat treated, because it was HOT next to the rollers. It could be that I'm confusing a hot press step before the baryta application with the press step after baryta application.

There are 2 press steps involved in making baryta.

PE

PE!

Back to that paper! I have really need to get some of that colour paper as I’m trying to get together an exhibition and I have some special things I want to do! Now I don’t think that I’m going to be able manufacture paper it’s just too much hassle and time consuming.
I do have to find that paper some how!

I think the heated roller you where talking about could be the one which they used to size (preshrink) the paper before baryta but I’m not sure about that!
Is that any other way with out balancing the Ph, get colour and stable when it comes to archival quality? If I don't find that paper that is!

 

[Photo Engineer]

You might try diluting a burnt umber water based artist paint to just the right density of solution and then soak the paper in it. Or, use an off white water based paint of some sort.

PE