Time for Old TriX and Pyrocat

[Peter Schrager]

Someone give me time to dev. old TriX with Pyrocat 2:2:100 for the Na2 process. Regardless my time for exp under the litebox are incredibly long. Something like 20+ minutes. I used to use W2D2 and go about 6-9minutes.
Really sucks....must be me though.
Peter

 

[wm blunt]

Someone give me time to dev. old TriX with Pyrocat 2:2:100 for the Na2 process. Regardless my time for exp under the litebox are incredibly long. Something like 20+ minutes. I used to use W2D2 and go about 6-9minutes.
Really sucks....must be me though.
Peter

I use pyro-cat hd 2:2:100 at 70 degrees for 9 minutes for a neg. with a density of 1.7 for palladium. That's for a SBR of 7 or normal range. Hope this helps.

 

[clay]

Old Tri-X will get really high UV base+fog in pyrocat. Try a 2:1:100 dilution. If that doesn't work, then D-19 or D-76 will probably do the trick without a lot of base fog.

 

[sanking]

Someone give me time to dev. old TriX with Pyrocat 2:2:100 for the Na2 process. Regardless my time for exp under the litebox are incredibly long. Something like 20+ minutes. I used to use W2D2 and go about 6-9minutes.
Really sucks....must be me though.
Peter

You must avoid over-exposure and over-development with all Pyro staining developers. Either condition will increase the B+F in the shadow densities and dramatically lengthen exposure times. A base exposure of about 5 minutes with a well-exposed and developed negative can easily increase by two to three stops, i.e. to 20-40 minutes, if you over-expose by one stop and increase time of development by 25% more than normal.

Also, avoid film that has a very high B+F from age fogging. The stain will more than double the effective printing density of the negative when compared to development in non-staining developers.


Sandy

 

[Peter Schrager]

Thanks

Yup-I'm up to 35 minutes and I'm sure I did not overexpose or overdevelop the negs this time. I have some stashed TMY400 that I would like to use also-same result in the printing time? Maybe I'll go to D-76 for my plat. printing...
Thanks again, Peter

 

[sanking]

Yup-I'm up to 35 minutes and I'm sure I did not overexpose or overdevelop the negs this time. I have some stashed TMY400 that I would like to use also-same result in the printing time? Maybe I'll go to D-76 for my plat. printing...
Thanks again, Peter

If the fillm is old and has any significant amount of B+F I also would avoid developing it in a staining developer. Several years ago I obtained some long out-dated Super-XX and it had a B+F in D76 of log 0.50. This increased to log 0.95 when developed in a pyro developer. As you can see, that is 1.5 extra stops for the stain over and beyond what was about a full stop just from the film fogging. And that was with correct exposure and development!

Sandy

 

[Peter Schrager]

OK

Sandy-got it! I'll do the TriX and TMY in D-76. I've just spent the entire day doing 5 prints at 35 minutes per. I think this will save me some time.
Peter

 

[sanking]

Sandy-got it! I'll do the TriX and TMY in D-76. I've just spent the entire day doing 5 prints at 35 minutes per. I think this will save me some time.
Peter

Peter,

I don't talk about this very much, but if you add about 2 grams of sodium sulfite per liter of working solution of Pyrocat-HD the developer will not stain at all. The additional sulphite also gives a real boost to the developer's activity, such that a 1:1:100 dilution with the sulphite will give about the same results as a 2:2:100 dilution without it. BTW, the addition of about 2 grams of ascorbic acid to the working solution will give the same result.

I have not evaluated carefully the impact on sharpness and grain of the non-staining versions of Pyrocat-HD, but since you appear to already have the Pyrocat-HD you might want to give this a try, assuming that you have either some ascorbic acid or sulphite on hand.

Sandy

 

[Peter Schrager]

NaSulfite/Ascorbic Acid

Sandy, I will give the NaSulfite/Ascorbic Acid a whirl as I have both in the house. I'll do a control versus D-76 as far as sharpness and grain. If you want I'll be glad to send you some negatives for evaluation although I will print them and report back here. I still have quite a bit of the TriX; something like 1700 sheets left in 5x7. My standard procedure with Pyrocat produces fine negatives for silver-of course I was hoping to have the dual negatives(plat+silver) but I'll just have to make 2 different exposures. Thanks for the tip off....
Best, Peter

Sandy- not only did you make the best darn developer in the world but you freely give of yourself to the members of this and several other forums. My appreciation goes out once more....

 

[sanking]

Peter,

Great. I would love to see some comparative negatives. If I had to guess I would suspect that the un-staining Pyrocat-HD would be slightly sharper but have slightly larger grain. But subtle changes often make large and unexpected differences so you never know for sure until you look at the results.

Look forward to your report.

And thanks for your kind comments.

Best,

Sandy

Sandy, I will give the NaSulfite/Ascorbic Acid a whirl as I have both in the house. I'll do a control versus D-76 as far as sharpness and grain. If you want I'll be glad to send you some negatives for evaluation although I will print them and report back here. I still have quite a bit of the TriX; something like 1700 sheets left in 5x7. My standard procedure with Pyrocat produces fine negatives for silver-of course I was hoping to have the dual negatives(plat+silver) but I'll just have to make 2 different exposures. Thanks for the tip off....
Best, Peter

Sandy- not only did you make the best darn developer in the world but you freely give of yourself to the members of this and several other forums. My appreciation goes out once more....