However, the story is a bit different with paper negatives, which usually have poorer latent stability so if you're going on a trip, I would suggest just shooting film. The usual approach is to take as many empty film boxes as full ones, first unload your holders into the "exposed" box, then reload them from the "fresh" box (don't have both boxes in the darkbag at the same time!). Obviously if you're using film-boxes with the black plastic bag in them, they're properly light-tight because those containers are designed to transport film safely.
If you're doing Zone-system adjustments, clearly you will need to have separate boxes for sheets requiring N, N-1, N+1, etc development.
That thread explicitly doesn't name the film because the poster doesn't want it to be about that particular film. However, I'm pretty sure that films with better long-exposure reciprocity characteristics keep better than those without. Therefore, you should see excellent image stability from Acros, TMX and TMY and perhaps poorer stability from things like Fomapan. The reason is that reciprocity failure is due to the slow loss of (partial) exposure in the shadow regions, via the same electrical leakage mechanism that causes loss of latent image. Either way, a few weeks is no problem at all for a modern film.