TIFFEN FILTERS

tokam · Sep 11, 2019

Thanks AGX. I get the lacquered and anodised coatings. I have a squeeze bottle of graphite that I use for doorlocks etc.

I'd be a little bit concerned that graphite may migrate to places that it shouldn't be. The teflon applied with a brush sounds promising. Once again a wipe afterwards with a clean cloth. The amount of lubricant should be minimal.

In the meantime I will probably leave things as they are until any problems arise.

RalphLambrecht · Sep 11, 2019

never had a binding problem with Tiffen filters.

AgX · Sep 11, 2019

Laminated filters are threatened by moisture, even a germam manufacturer of these warns against moisture.

I have seen quite same delaminated modern polarizers and these even do not contain gelatin.

btaylor · Sep 11, 2019

tokam said:
Regards the problem with aluminum filter rings tending to bind when in contact with with other aluminum threads. Is there a grease or other lubricant that can be sparingly applied to the threads to ensure smooth engagement without binding. Thinking of a wipe of the 'Dri-lube' type sticks and them wipe with a clean cloth?

Nose grease. It’s always with you! Rub your finger on your skin just above the flair of your nostril, apply to filter threads or whatever.

BrianShaw · Sep 11, 2019

btaylor said:
Nose grease. It’s always with you! Rub your finger on your skin just above the flair of your nostril, apply to filter threads or whatever.

... that’s the most economical option!

Teflon dry lube worked for me. It only takes a tiny amount if there’s no thread or mount damage.

AgX · Sep 11, 2019

And damages can be ground off.

BrianShaw · Sep 11, 2019

AgX said:
And damages can be ground off.

Yes, some can be. Dent-related damage, even repaired dents, not always can be fixed so that mount and dismount is completely foolproof even when aided by grease.

jim10219 · Sep 11, 2019

And if they do the stuck, heat and cold will usually break them free. Throw it in the freezer to cool it down, and then run a hair dryer over it to heat it back up. At some point, they'll separate. Be careful to protect the glass parts from any rapid temperature changes. You don't want the glass to crack. Sometimes in the field, blowing some AC on it from your car and then warming it up in your pocket will be enough.

Sirius Glass · Sep 11, 2019

I would rather have to remove a stuck filter with filter wrenches that constantly fight with a filter that will not stay on. When I remove a lens cap, I want the filter to stay on and not be turning loose.

wiltw · Sep 11, 2019

Someone's comparative testing speaks for itself.

https://www.kenandchristine.com/Other/Equipment-Tests/Filter-Tests/

Arklatexian · Sep 11, 2019

anthonym3 said:
I believe the expression GOOD ENOUGH FOR GOVERNMENT WORK was a reference to inferior production.

My impression has always been that GOOD ENOUGH FOR GOVERNMENT WORK meant it was "just" good enough, not necessarily inferior, but not the very best either. If it were not good enough for government work, it would be "rejected"..........Regards!

John Koehrer · Sep 12, 2019

tokam said:
Regards the problem with aluminum filter rings tending to bind when in contact with with other aluminum threads. Is there a grease or other lubricant that can be sparingly applied to the threads to ensure smooth engagement without binding. Thinking of a wipe of the 'Dri-lube' type sticks and them wipe with a clean cloth?

I ues wax. Canning, candle both work, rub a tiny bit on either inner or outer thread.

AgX · Sep 12, 2019

But wax likely melts (sun on blackend metal) and then there is the chance of transferring it to the glass, leaving a stubborn smear on the glass.

GLS · Sep 17, 2019

Pencil lead is a good lubricant for threads. Just get a mechanical pencil with a fine gauge lead and run it around the threads on both sides, making sure to blow off any excess graphite particles after you have done so.

Of course, using brass filters in the first place is better, and obviates the need for this.

Also, as to the OP's question: I suspect the consumer grade Tiffen stuff is not of the same quality as the high end products they make for the cine industry.

NB23 · Sep 17, 2019

GLS said:
Also, as to the OP's question: I suspect the consumer grade Tiffen stuff is not of the same quality as the high end products they make for the cine industry.

Lack of coating is a serious downside and it shows sometimes on pics.

I use tiffens for filters that are not offered in the BW line, such as the 47 or 47b and Green, two necessary filters for bw work.

TIFFEN FILTERS

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