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Thinking of trying Arista brand Fixer

jbridges

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Trying to save a little money by purchasing Arista powder fixer instead of Kodak. Anyone have a reason to tell me not to? Thanks.

jb
 
I use the Arista Premium odorless fixer because I dont like the smell. I've never had any problems with it nox fixing adequately. The instructions say the odorless fixer goes bad after about two months, which may be a problem if you dont do much developing or printing, but I usually print enough to use it to capacity.

Last time I checked Freestyle, the Arista Premium odorless fixer cost like $1 more than the Kodak powder fixer, though. I havent used the powder Arista stinky fixer, but I see no reason why it should be any less effective than Kodak fixer. If it saves you a bit of money and works just as good, use it
 
I use the Arista Premium ordorless fixer and it does go bad after about 3-4 months, at least at my house. But it does work fine, maybe just a bit slower than the non-odorless.
 
I use the Arista liquid fixer and have never had a problem with it.

Works great as far as I'm concerned!
 
The Arista premium odorless liquid fixer went bad on me. I didn't read the instructions, so it was quite a surprise on me!
 
I've been using Arista fixer and stop bath in place of Ilford to save money for a while. I don't know if it is because my technique is improving or because the fixer is better, but I've had better results with it than with the Ilford fixer.
 
Making a reliable fixer isn't quantum physics so it seems it would be hard to mess up.

The only thing you need to watch is if you want an alkaline or acid based formula.
 
The Arista Chemicals have treated me well. Better than the papers have.
 
my experience is that it has a short shelf life, and can't be used at the recommended dilutions and time unless you are in to real purple negatives
 
[. Anyone have a reason to tell me not to? .

No.
 
trhull said:
my experience is that it has a short shelf life, and can't be used at the recommended dilutions and time unless you are in to real purple negatives
Click to expand...

I've noticed that my HP5 has been a a bluish purple color but assumed that that's how it's supposed to be. It doesnt seem to affect printing for me.

You're saying mix it up a bit stronger and/or fix for a little longer? Would that solve the color "problem"?
 
Anscojohn said:
. Anyone have a reason to tell me not to? .

No.
Click to expand...

I'd say it depends on your turnover. I too found it had short shelf life, but was significantly less expensive.

If you're going to turn it over, then it's a no brainer. Less money, same results.

If you're going to throw some of it out, then you have to do the math.

As far as I could tell it was perfectly adequate and did the job properly. No complaints there.

It didn't begin to turn on me until the bottle was almost gone. At the time I was doing a fair amount of work, and went through it rapidly (90 days?). Now I'm not doing so much, so I doubt I could get through a bottle.

MB
 
I used to use the odorless fixer. Was slow, had to use a higher dilutions, and went bad soon. Illford rapid fixers are better value IMO. I do like their paper and film.
 
Thanks for your opinions. Think I will buy one and go from there. Seems to be worth a shot it is just hard to break up your system.
 
I have nothing against Arista, but I don't use powdered fixers. Troop & Anchell's book talks about concerns about sodium thiosulfate-based fixers (which is what almost all powdered fixers are, if not all). Liquid concentrate fixers, on the other hand, are ammonium thiosulfate-based and this chemical is reliable, not to mention much quicker.

It's more expensive to buy liquid fixers because of the weight of all the water, but this is one chemical where I strongly prefer liquids.
 
I buy all my supplies from Freestyle, and I'll add the liquid odorless went bad on me too, admittedly after a 'few' months. I just found out last night when a bunch of black crud came out of my brown bottle when I poured it into the tray. I tested it with the fixer tester and it 'seemed' OK. I was only doing three contact sheets so filtered it and used it anyway, but dumped it afterwards. I plan to go back to powdered.
 
If you really are out to save money as the number one consideration, you can buy the chemicals and make your own fixer for each needed batch.
 
Fresh Fix Each Session

2F/2F said:
If you really are out to save money as the number one
consideration, you can buy the chemicals and make your
own fixer for each needed batch.
Click to expand...

Fresh fix each session is a quick mix whether the concentrate
be the liquid ammonium thiosulfate or the solid sodium thiosulfate.
No additives are needed. Both forms have a ph near neutral.
Addition of either sodium bisulfite or sulfite will tilt the
ph toward acidic or alkaline.

I plan my work load ahead so mix just enough for that. The
fixer is used at a higher dilution than usual and as a one
shot; film and paper.

There is time invested in establishing the amounts
needed. One-shot use works well with my single
tray method of processing. Dan
 
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